2019-10-01 Wanderlust

wanderlust.co.uk October 2019 173

T

he wader-clad
isherman was thigh
high in the fast-
lowing river, as he
cast his line for
salmon in the soft morning
light. It was a sight one might
expect in the Highlands, but
I hadn’t anticipated seeing it
just a few minutes walk from
Inverness city centre. 
However, the River Ness is
special for the irst claimed
sighting of the Loch Ness
Monster, back in AD565.
Legend has it that Saint
Columba banished a “water
monster” from the river, and it
led upstream to Loch Ness. 
If ‘Nessie’ had led a few miles
in the other direction she’d have
found herself in the dolphin-rich

Moray Firth, as Inverness is at

the northern end of the Great

Glen, where the Highlands meet

the coast. It is the northernmost

city in the UK, and it is probably

the fastest-growing. However, it

is still compact and very

walkable, and you are never far

from water or forest. 

You are never far from myths

and legends here either. In the

early 17th century, a Highlander

known as the ‘Brahan Seer’

became known for his

prophecies, including foretelling

the Battle of Culloden, which

took place nearby in 1746. He

also deemed that when the

city had ive bridges over the

River Ness there would be

worldwide chaos. In August

1939 a ifth bridge was

completed, just on the eve of

the Second World War. 

The Seer also predicted that

one day ships would sail round

the back of Tomnahurich Hill.

This seemed completely

illogical, but the Caledonian

Canal does run around the back

of the hill. Sadly the Brahan Seer

came to a sticky end, having

given the wife of an Earl the

unwelcome news that her

husband was philandering. 

Today, tourism in the

Highlands is booming with

visitors locking to sites familiar

from ilm and TV series such as

Outlander. Inverness is seen as

a gateway, but it deserves

better than that; stay, soakupits

history and raise a glassof

whisky to the Brahan Seer.

Pocket

Yourcut-outandkeeptravelcompanion

ABRITISHBREAKIN...

INVERNESS,

SCOTLAND

Monster river

The irst claimed

sighting of the Loch

Ness monster was in

River Ness in AD565

Known as the Gateway to the Scottish Highlands, Inverness issomuchmorethan

this. Lyn Hughes discovers its rich history, landscapes and whisky...

ASK A LOCAL

“Make your way to the

hidden gem that is

The Malt Rooms on

Church Street and try

their chocolate light,

which pairs delicious

whiskieswith

chocolates from

The Chocolate

Place. Deliciously

Divine”

Gavin Nicholson,

Invergordon Tours

SECRET^197