24 wanderlust.co.uk October 2019
Amysticalsettingwithachanceofseeingthenorthernlights,FinnishLapland’schanging
landscapesareacalltothewildthat’sfinallybeingheard.It’salsothejollyhomeofSanta
Freedom to roam
Nature is not only
wild in Finland, it’s
free for everyone to
enjoy – respectfully
Alamy; Dreamstime; Getty Images
B
efore the silver lakes
frost over and snow
dusts the forests
and fells of Finnish
Lapland, the
short-lived season of ruska takes
hold of the land. Fall colours set
the arboreal landscape ablaze,
with the leaves of birches and
mountain ash trees rusting into
amber, gold and scarlet.
This, however, won’t be the only
spectacle to catch your eye this
season, as the northern lights
make a comeback, swinging
a curtain of pale green light over
a sleepy land settling down for
a long peaceful snooze.
It’s a time of year that attracts
all sorts of visitors to the region, all
in the hope of capturing both
experiences. The hiking trails at
Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park
offer a fitting introduction to the
changing colours, before winter
makes the routes treacherous by
around mid-October. Trek the
55km-long Hetta-Pallas Hiking
Trail and you’ll find fells, ravines
and panoramic views across
the park. On your way, you’ll
discover open wilderness huts,
where you can rest up for a night
and take advantage of the Finn’s
‘right to roam’ law.
Heading south, not far from
Lapland’s capital Rovaniemi – aka
Santa’s HQ – you can hang out
with blue-eyed huskies on
therapeutic retreats, join them on
bumpy cart rides as they train for
the upcoming winter season, or
canoe your way up to a (non-
flying) reindeer farm.
Continue north to Lake Inari
however, and you’ll come across
the Sámi – indigenous semi-
nomads who herd vast numbers
of reindeer through Scandinavian
forests. Guided tours at the Siida
museum offer an insight into
their culture, while boating trips
along the River Lemmenjoki lead
you into their ancient homelands.
Inari is also where you’re likely
to have your best encounter with
the aurora borealis, known here
as ‘fox fire’. Tales of an Arctic fox
sparking snow with his tail may
be popular folklore, but if you
gaze upwards, you can almost
hear the real story, the whisper of
distant solar storms happening
well beyond our reach.
Go
Now
for an autumnal adventure
THE DESTINATION:
FINNISH LAPLAND