34 wanderlust.co.uk October 2019
EXPLORE
Tokyoisacityofparks,fromthevast
ShinjukuGyoenNationalGarden(pictured)
tothelushly-forestedYoyogiPark.These
greenspacesareoftenbuzzingwithlive
musicandlaughter,butespeciallysothan
duringcherryblossomseason–whenlocals
lockforbeer-fuelledpicnicsbeneaththe
pinksakurapetalsthatdanceonthebreeze.Likethecityitself,Kyoto’soutdoorspaces
areserene.Strollbetweentheswaying
trunksofArashiyamaBambooGrove,or
takeabreathinaquietcentralpark.The
rakedgravelgardenofUNESCO-listed
Ryoan-jiTempleisparticularlymeditative,
andisdesignedsothatnomatterwhichway
OUTDOORS youlook,oneofits^15 rocksisalwayshidden.JAPAN
VERDICT:GohardinTokyoandslowinKyoto.Everythingaboutthecapitalisfast,rightdown
toitspedestrians’walkingpace.Kyoto,bycontrast,revealsthecalmersideofJapaneselife.
Together,theyoerrealinsightintolocalcustomsandculture,sodon’tjustpickone:doboth.The evocative Japanese cities of Tokyo and Kyoto will headline most visitors’
to-do lists – but do you opt for the capital’s neon lights and Michelin-starred
sushi spots, or choose Kyoto’s more serene, temple-rich oerings?TokyobecameJapan’scapitalsurprisingly
recently,onlyearningthetitlein1868.
Ithasn’tbeenwithoutitstroubles–from
devastatingearthquakestoSecondWorld
Warbombings–butthecityalwaysbounces
backstronger.Today,itstandsasashining
exampleofprosperity,hometooneofthe
largesturbanpopulationsintheworld.KyotoservedasJapan’scapital for over
1,000years.Thecityhasresisted the urge
tomodernise:thereareno airports, only two
metrolines,andabanonbuildings over ten
storeyshigh.Itfeelslikeatime capsule,
especiallyinthecobbledstreets of the Gion
district,withitstemptingtea shops and
beguilinggeisha(pictured).HISTORY
Tokyomightlookfuturistic,butitstillhas
ahistoricalheart.You’llindquiettemples
tuckedintosidestreets,andbustling
shrines–likeAsakusaJinja–hiddenbehind
cloudsofincense.Makesureyouvisitthe
ImperialPalace(pictured),theEmperor’s
primaryresidence,whichstandsabove
astillmoatinKokyoGaienNationalGarden.KyotoisJapan’scultureking, home to over
2,000templesandshrines. Walk through
the5,000toriigatesthatwind through the
mountainsbehindFushimi Inari Shrine, or
visitthedazzlinggoldpavilion of Kinkaku-ji.
There’salsotheKiyomizu temple, which is
festoonedwithblossoming cherry trees in
springandgoldenmaples in autumn.CULTURE
Dreamstime; ShutterstockFromtinysushishopstorowdyizakayabars,
Tokyo’srestaurantshavemoreMichelin
starsthanParisandNewYorkputtogether.
AfunplacetospendanightisOmoide
Yokocho(‘MemoryLane’)inShinjuku,fullof
narrowalleywayslinedwithtinylantern-lit
eateries.Hitthesaketoohard?Slurpsome
ramennoodles,thelocalhangovercure.InKyoto,it’sallaboutkaiseki (pictured),
awonderfullyreinedmulti-course menu
ofdelicatelavoursandseasonal
ingredients,originatingfrom the city’s
traditionalteaceremonies. It doesn’t come
cheap:atop-qualitykaiseki can set you back
30,000JPY(£225),butit’s worth it for a true
tasteofKyototradition.FOOD
Head to Head
Tokyo VERSUS Kyoto
TRAVEL
SECRETIf you’re travelling
from Tokyo to Kyoto
by shinkansen
(bullet train), make
sure you sit by a
window on the
right-hand side of
the train: about 40
minutes into the
journey, you’ll get
the best views of
snowy Mount Fuji.AT A
GLANCETokyo
Population
13.9million
Totalarea
2,188sqkm
Famousfor:
Food,futuristic
architectureand
funnightlifeKyoto
Population
1.4million
Totalarea
827 sqkm
Famousfor
Temples,shrines
andtraditional
gardensTOKYO KYOTO24