354
earrings cont.
tourmaline and platinum 229
vesuvianite 250
zircon 269
Edo, bronze head 49
egg carving, chrysocolla 196
eggs, Fabergé 237, 278–79
Elizabeth I, Queen 128–29
Elizabeth II, Queen 78
see also British Crown Jewels
Elizabeth, Queen, the Queen Mother 59
Elizabeth Taylor‘s charm bracelet 33
emerald cut 29
emeralds 27, 115, 131, 207, 232–33, 238, 255, 286
Bulgari bracelet 229
Cartier bracelet 85
Cartier dragon brooch 158
Cartier Dragon Mystérieux onyx watch 155
Cartier flamingo brooch 224–25
Cartier Indian brooch 93
Cartier opal necklace 161
Cartier panther ring 233
Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet 81
Cartier parrot brooch 241
Cartier pen 38
Cartier ring 39
Cleopatra’s peridot 255
coral hummingbird brooch (Kutchinsky) 315
Crown of the Andes 230–31
forehead ornament (tika) 92–93
Gachala 332
Giardinetto brooch 149
Hooker Emerald (Tiffany) 233
Kiani Crown 182–83
lapis lazuli panther brooch 174
“lithia emerald” 208
Marie-Louise’s diadem 112–13
Maximilian Emerald 240
opal peacock brooch (Winston) 161
peacock sculptures, shop interior (Fouquet) 249
pendant brooch (Van Cleef & Arpels) 92
Royal Household at Delhi tableau (Dinglinger) 140–41
St George statuette 144–45
Spanish hippocamp pendant 236
Topkapi dagger 234–35
turban ornaments 92–93
woman’s head carving 237
enhancing gems 31
enstatite 202
epidote 251
Etruscan bronze amulet 49
euclase 283
Eugénie, Empress 47
Eye of Brahma (Black Orlov) diamond 270–71F
Fabergé 237, 259, 278–79
falcon collar faience, ancient Egypt 179
falcon pectoral, ancient Egypt 32
fancy cut 29
filing, coating, and reconstruction 31
Flos Ferri aragonite 99
fluorescent minerals 186–87
fluorite 16, 17, 96–97, 187, 267
Fontaine, Joan 36
“fool’s gold” see pyrite
forehead ornament (tika) 92–93fossil
ammonite see ammonite
limestone 324
Fouquet, Georges 159, 248–49
fracture 17
Frederick the Great, snuffbox 150–51
frog, carved 86G
Gachala emerald 332
Gaillard, Lucien 43
garnets 23, 27, 29, 77, 142, 258–63, 266–67, 286
anniversary stone 114
Arts and Crafts crescent brooch (Nossiter) 85
Bulgari Cerchi earrings 229
Cartier orchid earrings 227
Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet (Cartier) 81
Cartier Pushkar ring 245
Cartier ring 39, 262, 263
and emerald cross 233
hessonite 131, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263
lapis lazuli vase 177
Patiala necklace 90–91
Peacock brooch (Fouquet) 159
Roman earring 293
Russian kovsh (drinking vessel) 149
Staffordshire hoard 264–65
tsavorite 85, 262
white gold, chrysoberyl, and garnet ring 85
Gaskin brothers 229
gem cuts 28–29, 30
gem qualities 30
Georgian onyx seal 155
Germany
Augustus II treasure chambers 140–41
Munich Residence, Diana with stag centrepiece
(Walbaum) 316–17
Three Holy Fathers shrine, Cologne, peridots 255
Gilson 176
gold 17, 19, 36–39, 114, 142
Agamemnon, Mask of 288–89
amethyst and seed pearl brooch 138
and ametrine pin (Dyber) 244
amulet of Onuris 179
ancient octopus brooch 37
ancient Greek hippocamp and griffin fibula 32
andalusite ring 274
aquamarine brooch (Donald) 237
aquamarine and diamond ring 241
aquamarine earrings 240
Arts and Crafts crescent brooch (Nossiter) 85
Arts and Crafts turquoise earrings 111
Babylonian pendant 32
benitoite earrings 223
birds’ nest dioptase pendant 220
bloodstone watch case 149
blue tassel necklace 240
blue topaz ring 273
Bulgari Cerchi earrings 229
Bulgari Gemma watch 226
bull’s head, ancient Egypt 179
Byzantine jewels 103
Cartier Dragon Mystérieux onyx watch 155
Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet 81
Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague necklace 240
Cartier rings 37, 39, 161, 175, 177, 233, 245,
262, 295gold cont.
chalcedony antique cup 147
chalcedony pendant (Van Cleef & Arpels) 149
chalcedony ring 149
chalcedony snake bracelet 146
chrysoberyl and garnet ring 85
and chrysoprase snuffbox 150–51
citrine and amethyst brooch 139
clip Feuille Persane (Van Cleef & Arpels) 92
coral hummingbird brooch (Kutchinsky) 315
coral ring 315
Cosmic Clam jadeite ring (Raible) 213
Crown of the Andes 230–31
cufflinks (Bulgari) 177
demantoid garnet apple pendant 263
dioptase brooch/pendant 220
dragonfly brooch 43
Edwardian peridot pendant 255
Egyptian Mehurt bust 176
Egyptian pectorals 32–33, 147, 175
and emerald cross 233
Fabergé eggs 237, 278–79
fan brooch 241
flamingo brooch 224–25
forehead ornament (tika) 92–93
garnet antique hairpin 259
golden beryl earrings 241
“Hat box” pendant (Louis Vuitton) 161
Hope Pearl 293
and howlite pendant 127
Indian opal bracelet 159
iolite earrings 222
jade rose pendant necklace (Nossiter) 213
jet earrings 307
kunzite and pearl necklace (Picasso) 209
and kunzite ring 209
lapis lazuli bangle (Tiffany) 177
lapis lazuli ewer (Miseroni) 175
lapis lazuli panther brooch 174
lapis lazuli ring 176
lapis lazuli vase 177
larimar lotus flower brooch 217
morganite ear pendants 240
multi-gem necklace 240
Navette ruby and diamond ring 77
and nephrite brooch 213
and nephrite ring 213
nose ring (nath) 92
and onyx pendant 155
Peacock brooch 93
Peacock brooch (Fouquet) 159
peacock sculptures, shop interior (Fouquet) 249
and pearl star pin 294
and peridot jewellery 255
pink opal bracelet (Van Cleef & Arpels) 161
pocket watch, Ludwig II of Bavaria 194–95
Queen Elizabeth’s pelican brooch 128–29
rock crystal brooch 139
rock crystal flaçon (Munsteiner) 244
rock crystal pendant 139
Roman earring 293
rotating bezel ring 177
Royal Household at Delhi tableau (Dinglinger) 140–41
ruby and diamond dragon pendant 77
ruby and diamond hexagonal ring 77
ruby and sapphire floral brooch 77
St George statuette 144–45
and scapolite earrings 184
scarab pectoral, ancient Egypt 178
Scythian pectoral 38gold cont.
Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar 256–57
and spinel ring 81
Staffordshire hoard 264–65
stork pendant 259
Sumerian eagle 176
Summer Snow earrings (Cicolini) 244
swivel ring with sphinx charm 178
Tiffany chequered bangle 177
and titanite jewellery 275
Topkapi emerald dagger 234–35
tourmaline jewellery 227, 229
turban ornaments 92–93
and turquoise jewellery 111
Tutankhamun funerary mask 178
vulture collar, ancient Egypt 178–79
Wedjat pectoral, ancient Egypt 179
zircon openwork brooch 269
Golden Sunstone (bytownite) 173
Goldsmiths’ Guild 156–57
goshenite 238, 239
grading and evaluation 26–27
granite 329
gypsum 16, 123, 186H
hair combs 33, 43, 165
hairpin 259
halides 14
Halley’s Comet opal 162–63
hardness 16
Harlow, Jean 72
Harrington, Sybil 113
haüyne 181
heliodor 27, 29, 238, 239, 240, 241
hematite 19, 86, 130
Hepburn, Audrey 52
Herbert, Terry 265
Hermes marble sculpture 328
hessonite 131, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263
hiddenite 27, 208
Hitler, Adolf 40
Hope Diamond 62–63
Hope Pearl 293
howlite 127
Hutton, Barbara 302
hypersthene 204I
idiochromatic gems 23
idocrase (vesuvianite) 250
Imperial Crown (Crown of Charlemagne) 40–41
Inca model llama 39
inclusions 206–07, 220
Indian jewels 92–93, 188–89
granite elephant 329
Hope Diamond 62–63
Koh-i-noor diamond 58–59, 188, 235
moonstone 170
opal bracelet 159
Patiala necklace 90–91
pendant brooch (Van Cleef & Arpels) 92
sandstone statue 325
Timur ruby 78–79354 INDEX
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