98 ·^ COSMOPOLITAN
same marketing seems
tobe trickling into
skincare. But while hair-
careproducts that call to
mindtropical islands and
theAfrican savanna may
putblack women under
somepressure to “embrace
nature!”thiscauses no damage to
ourmanes.Using butters and oils
asa solutioninskincare, on the other
hand, can do more harm than good.
“I think there is a lot of confusion
over hydration and oil,” says skin
specialist Debbie Thomas of D.
Thomas Clinic. “A lot of my darker-skin clients tend to use heavy oils
and greasy creams, but still they
tell me their skin feels tight.
“Studies show that when you use too
many thick, greasy products, skin’s
deeper layers can get confused: your
skin thinks it’s hydrated because it has
this coating on the top. As a result, its
natural ability to absorb and lock in
water is impaired.” It’s so simple when
you think about it really. When you’re
thirsty you don’t drink a litre of olive
oil so why do we think dousing our
faces in oil is the answer to parched
skin? Water-based serums and light,
oil-free moisturisers with humectantShe’s right. I ponder the point as
I rifle through my mum’s skincare
stash after work one night. The
line-up is like a who’s who of elite
beauty brands. But none specifically
target problems that my mum
and many black women face, like
hyperpigmentation [when skin
forms darkened spots or clusters
as a result of inflammation, genetics
or hormonal issues] and uneven skin
tone. Despite the skincare aisles being
awash with pigmentation-busting
potions that could work for my
mum, the message hasn’t
reached her. Simply put:
mainstream skincare
doesn’t talk to her.
Without brands
flagging how their
products might
benefit skins of colour,
chances are that it
never will – and we risk
a lifetime of shelling out for skincare
that just cannot work for us.
Yes, dedicated ranges for people
of colour have started to pop up, but
they tend to be extremely pricey. Dr
Barbara Sturm’s Darker Skin Tones
range and Epara Skincare, for example,
are both aimed atthismarketand
will set you backaround£500for
a full regime. They’regreat,but
you’ll see their ingredients
in many mainstream
skincare ranges that
would work perfectly
for dark skins – ata
fraction of the price.
On top of this, the
messaging aroundthe
treatment of darkskin
appears to focus around
one word and itsspinoffs–
“natural”. Is this theskincaremarket
mimicking the Afrohairindustry
- one that has becomeobsessedwith
botanicals, thanks to the success of
the natural hair movement? Think
shea butter, mango, coconut oil,
hibiscus flower, kumquat... plant oils
and extracts reign supreme and the
“Mainstream
skincare
doesn’t talk
to people
of colour”