Australian Geographic - 09.2019 - 10.2019

120 Australian Geographic

W

HILE THE DRIVE into Nerriga is dominated by

undulating farmland, the landscape over the next

30km changes dramatically. Beyond Sassafras, one of

several villages established to provide rest and relief for bullock

teams passing through, tall trees give way to a rocky sandstone

outcrop, complete w ith cl i ff s and pancake-stack rock formations

known as the Bulee Gap.

Here, if you stop and explore the old route of the Wool Road,

which sits below a series of modern bridges, and is at some

points barely wide enough to spread your arms, you get a real

sense of the 1840s engineering eff ort required to blast through

this sandstone edifi ce. You’ll also get a chance to admire the

curious collection of teddies that have mysteriously proliferated

in a roadside cave since the road was sealed in 2010.

Beyond the Bulee Gap the road traverses a narrow ridge –

on one side is the dramatic gorge of the Ettrema wilderness,

punctuated with rivers and waterfalls, while to the east a series

of gnarly lookouts weathered from aeons of storms sit like giant

knuckles guarding the coastal escarpment.

At one of these vantage points, Jerrawangala Lookout, the

original Wool Road leads straight down the escarpment, and is

best tackled in a four-wheel-drive, with spades of local knowledge.

For everyone else, it’s an easy 27km stretch down to the

Princes Highway, where at Sanctuary Point you can once again

pick up the old Wool Road. (It’s fi nally called that at this point.)

A few kilometres further along, where Vincentia’s Holden Street

Boat Ramp runs into the glistening waters of Jervis Bay, is

a handful of partly submerged hand-hewn sandstone blocks.

Tacked on one is a small plaque that states these remnants are “all

that is left of the wharf built in 1842 to ship wool to Sydney”.

It’s the offi cial terminus of the Wool Road.

After big storms, sand is often stripped away, exposing even

more of the relic wharf, providing a tantalising reminder of

our pioneering past. Although not as long as some of Australia’s

great drives, the Wool Road makes up in variety what it lacks

in distance, especially if you are prepared to dig a little and

venture off the beaten path.

Just don’t expect to see many sheep.

Although wool is no longer the dominant product

grown along the Wool Road, the route features a

number of farm gates including:

L’Air Du Wombat Truffles (41km): The altitude of

the Southern Tablelands is ideal for growing truffles

(above). In winter you can join Barry, a trained truffle

dog, to hunt for black truffles. Or, year-round, enjoy

an escape here in an off-grid bush cabin.

Sassafras Nut Farm (73km): Best known for tall

timber, this locale is also home to a chestnut and

walnut farm. Pick your own in season (autumn).

Nerriga Hall (59km): On the first Sunday of every

month, local farmers peddle a variety of produce,

including free-range pork, olive oil, garlic, wine and

seasonal vegetables.

For more adventures in the NSW Shoalhaven

District shoalhaven.com

Roadside diversions

About fi ve years ago a couple of teddies mysteriously

appeared in a small cave on the Wool Road. Numbers have since

grown and it’s now a popular landmark for travellers.

These sandstone blocks are all that remains of the wharf at

Vincentia, the offi cial end of the Wool Road, where in the 1840s,

wool was shipped to Sydney and beyond.

AG

AG THANKS Sue Robens and John Horobin for their country

hospitality. FOR MORE of Thomas Wielecki’s stunning Wool Road

images go to australiangeographic.com.au/issue152