Saturday Magazine - 24.08.2019

(Sean Pound) #1
66 SATURDAY MAGAZINE

The Praça do Comércio (Commercial Square)
is a city centrepiece of which Lisbon is rightly
proud. This grand square opening on to the
Tagus River boasts a fine statue of King Joseph
I in the centre and is capped at its northern end
by an imposing arch, the Arco da Rua Augusta.
Like most of Lisbon’s great buildings,
Praça do Comércio was built following
an earthquake, tsunami and fire that
devastated the city in 1755. A
massive rebuilding programme
resulted in
the place we

see today. Lisbon’s history can be better
understood at The Lisbon Story Centre in the
square (the price was included in our Lisbon
Card tourist pass, a money-saving investment
and highly recommended). Here, we took a
self-guided tour with headphones through
interactive exhibits providing a sweeping view
of Lisbon’s 2,000-year history. It really gives you
a new perspective on the capital – its glorious
18th-century buildings are a testament to the
residents’ resilience in the face of destruction.
The Praça do Comércio is the focal point of
Lisbon’s Baixa, or downtown area. Its long,
straight streets are a living memorial to the man
tasked with rebuilding after the earthquake, the
Marquis of Pombal. Amid all the grandeur
is the quirky Santa Justa elevator, a
100-year-old lift that takes passengers
seven stories up from Baixa to the Bairro
Alto district. Designed by a student of
Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame), the
wrought-iron lift has the same neo-Gothic
look, making it a delight to see, especially
when it’s lit up in the evenings.
Bairro Alto is an unconventional area, with
graffiti-splattered streets and a bohemian vibe


  • traditionally it’s a haunt of artists and
    writers and has cool, alternative
    shops. We were astonished to find


Laid-back


Lisbon


straight streets a
tasked with reb
Marquis o
is the qui
100-year
seven sto
Alto distr
Gustave E
wrought-ir
look, makin
when it’s lit u
Bairro Alto
graffiti-splatt


  • tradition
    write
    sh


Alfama neighbourhood

L


isbon could make a bid to be Europe’s
coolest capital city. It’s got an easy charm
and a friendly population that enjoys the
good things in life – whether that’s
partying in the cobbled alleyways of the Bairro
Alto neighbourhood or relaxing over coffee at
one of the many miradouros – or viewpoints –
scattered about the city.
Built on seven hills, Lisbon boasts panoramas
aplenty and offers quite a cardio workout to
those traversing it on foot.
It’s a city with a kind of shabby-chic
glamour that makes it feel lived-in
and loved. Apartment blocks
are encrusted with beautiful
old pastel-coloured tiles, and
graffiti lines the slopes where
the Elevador da Gloria
funicular wheezes up and
down a steep hill. Such
unpretentious sights exist
alongside the impressive statues
and grand piazzas you’d expect
from a European capital.
In order to enjoy Lisbon’s relaxed vibe, take
your time to savour the city over a coffee and
pastel de nata – the traditional melt-in-the-
mouth custard tart – or a glass of vinho verde,
the lightly sparkling white wine that makes a
perfect aperitif. Don’t try to cram it all in, but
cherry-pick sites to visit, as we did on a recent
72-hour stay. From our base, Hotel Olissippo
Saldanha – a modern business hotel just a
two-minute walk from the Saldanha metro
stop – we went exploring.

Vicki Power discovers


the Portuguese capital’s


charming, small-town vibe


Ride on one of
Lisbon’s funiculars

King Joseph I in the
Praça do Comércio

The Santa Justa
elevator from
Baixa to
Bairro Alto

‘It’s a city
with a kind of
shabby-chic
glamour that
makes it feel
lived-in and
loved’

Pictures: Getty Images; Alamy

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