Nuts
and
BOLTS
SEPARATING THE HUB FROM
THE ROTOR
To separate the rotor from the hub assembly,
we first undid two bolts on the inner face of
the rotor using a 14mm socket. Then we drove
out the six wheel studs with some encouraging
hammer hits. Once all studs are detached, the
hub assembly will part from the disc rotor, again
with some enthusiastic hammer persuasion.
At this point it’s worth cleaning the area and
surfaces to ensure maximum longevity and ease
of reassembly. Once cleaned we positioned the
new rotor and reused the two 14mm bolts with a
dab of Loctite. Using a whacking big hammer we
forced in the six new wheel studs, ensuring they
were flush with the surface.
CHANGING THE WHEEL
BEARINGS
The final piece of the puzzle is changing the
inner and outer wheel bearings and their
corresponding racers (a racer is a cone shaped
ring that supports a bearing). Holding the hub
assembly and using a heavy hammer and cold
chisel we systematically knocked the old outer
racer free. Upturning the hub we then knocked
out the inner seal, which allows the inner bearing
to freely fall out, and then we knocked out the
racer. We then thoroughlycleanedthe hub with
brakecleanerandrags.
Withbothnewbearings,g wepressedp bearing
grease within to ensure full coverage ofa
After plenty of degreaser and
rags, the hub interior looks great
Channel your inner agro to
separate the disc from the hub
Using a cold chisel and hammer to
carefully knock out the old racers
Place the hub through the new disc
and Loctite the two retaining bolts
Using a racer insert tool is easier —
else the old racer can be substituted
Hammer hard or press
in the six new wheel studs