MEN’S HEALTH 71supposed benefits might also be offered
by local, less expensive plants.
For example, Klatt observed that
moringa’s champions point to a specific
kind of disease-fighting antioxidant
called isothiocyanates as a reason to
love the plant. But isothiocyanates are
common compounds that are also found
in more mundane cruciferous veg, such
as broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.
So, how did moringa become so
marketable? Through high-profile
advocates such as Dr Oz, yes, but also
through more subtle tactics. Take,
for instance, an article that appeared
in the Washington Post titled “Moringa,
the Next Superfood?” It’s written by a
University of California Davis science
writer, and the story quotes researchers
from her university who discuss how the
plant could delay diabetes – which, in
theory, “could also forestall a heart attack
or an amputation”. On closer inspection,
however, it becomes apparent that this
is a paid advertorial. Indeed, one of
the scientists cited has worked as a
consultant for Kuli Kuli.
Nutrition experts such as Klatt
have pushed back on the rhetoric of
superfoods. “I am not a fan of the word
superfood,” Klatt says, pointing out that
it encourages consumers to chase magic
bullets rather than examining their diet in
a more holistic way. Dietitians stress that
overall eating patterns are the key to good
health, emphasising whole foods over
supplements. Faced with this consensus
- and an increasingly savvy target
market – companies are now appealing
to consumers with a higher cause.
Step 3
Grow the Halo
Effect
It’s not enough for most superfood
purveyors to seek to improve your health.
Most want to improve the planet, too.
For many modern brands, their ethical
credentials take top billing, advertised
ahead of the nutritional value of their
products. Wellness companies are
known to champion issues such as
sustainability and fair trade. Kuli Kuli
points to the fact that, by way of creating
an international market for moringa,
it has secured a sustainable livelihoodsort of moral satisfaction: I believe I am
a socially responsible person.”
While these initiatives are, by all
measures, Very Good Things, there’s still
a whiff of the ancient magic – consuming
something with a good soul to fortify your
own, like eating deer to become faster.
And with superfoods, the feel-good ritual
happens twice: once when you buy the
product, then again when you eat it.
There’s also a feedback loop formed
in doing good and feeling good, thanks
to a psychological phenomenon known
as the halo effect. In various contexts,
researchers have shown that a person’s
overall impression of a product influences
the perception of specific, unrelated
qualities. For example, high-priced wines
taste better when the drinker is aware of
the price. Chernev has studied the effect
of perceived corporate responsibility
on product evaluations and found that
altruism functions similarly. When
consumers were told a company was
engaged in charitable giving, their
experience of the company’s product
improved: wine tasted better, teeth
looked whiter, hair looked thicker.
The problem, though, is that many
superfoods remain bound up with shaky
scientific claims, regardless of brands’
charitable endeavours. In the case of
moringa, the nutritional benefits are
unequivocal, but it’s only a “miracle”
for people living in parts of the world
with high levels of malnutrition. When
it comes to your average guy shopping at
Whole Foods, the extent of its effects is
liable to be underwhelming.
After interviewing Curtis, it’s hard
not to feel convinced that Kuli Kuli’s
mission is sincere. Yes, the products are
overpriced based on their nutritional
value, but there is no reason to doubt the
company’s claim that it has generated
almost £1m in revenue for more than
1,365 moringa farmers in Africa. These
actions encourage consumers to think
globally about sustainability.
At the same time, you should
acknowledge the appeal of superfoods
for what it is and always has been: the
promise of an easy solution to deep
anxieties. In truth, there is no powder
that can heal your woes, nutrition-
related or otherwise. So, applaud the
new superfoods, insofar as they indicate
a change in what we value – a focus on
helping the world in addition to ourselves.
But also remember that making good
on those values, like leading a healthy
life, will take more than a little powder
in your smoothie.Chia seeds
The claim: They absorb
12 times their weight in
liquid to form an appetite-
suppressing gel in your gut,
leading to increased satiety
and rapid weight loss.
The reality: They are high
in hunger-curbing fibre,
with 11g in a 30g serving,
but they’re also expensive
and totally flavourless.
The swap: A slice of
seeded German rye bread
delivers a similar nutrition
profile, but is far more
enjoyable to eat.Goji berries
The claim: Originating
from a remote Chinese
village, these are higher in
antioxidants than almost
any other fruit and can
slow the effects of ageing.
The reality: True, they’re
rich in vitamins, but specific
figures are hard to come
by, and most berries could
purport to have some
anti-ageing properties.
The swap: A juicy 100-
calorie serving of lychees
offers more than 180% of
your vitamin-C RDA.Jackfruit
The claim: With a texture
not dissimilar to pulled
pork when cooked, this
Indian fruit is a healthy
swap for animal protein.
The reality: We won’t
weigh in on its parity with
pork, but at 3g of protein
per serving, you won’t
meet your macro targets.
The swap: Tofu. It’s also
a neutral flavour-sponge,
but it dishes out 15g of
protein per portion, along
with plenty of calcium.Eat Healthyish – SUPERFAD
“You feel
good twice:
once when
you buy it and
again when
you eat it”for farming communities- in particular, female
smallholder farmers. Snack
brand Natierra, which sells
chocolate-covered goji
berries, among other things,
advertises: “Buy One Bag,
Feed One Child”.
Alexander Chernev, a
professor of marketing
at Northwestern’s Kellogg School of
Management, explains that you’re
likely to see a purchase such as this as
desirable and beneficial in two different
ways. “For example, say that I buy a
bottle of Ethos water,” he says, referring
to Starbucks’s American subsidiary that
contributes five cents of every purchase
to its Ethos Clean Water Fund.
“One reason is that I want to reward
the company for its good behaviour,” he
says. “The other reason is that I feel some
A Hero’s
Journey
MH subjects three
more health-shop
cure-alls to closer
inspection