28 LEISURE Travel
“You have to expect the unexpected in
Singapore,” said Doug Hansen in The
San Diego Union-Tribune. A face-to-
face encounter with a toothy, 30-foot-
long, red-and-yellow cloth dragon
taught me that on the day my wife and
I decided to explore the city’s famed
Orchard Road, a leafy boulevard lined
with upscale shops and hotels. The
dragon and the drum-driven parade
it was leading turned out to be only
one of countless pleasant surprises
that greeted us during our five days
in the vibrant island city-state. Of the
six weeks we spent touring Southeast
Asia, those days proved the highlight.
“In fact, Singapore has become my favorite
major, modern city in the world.”
I should mention two drawbacks. First,
Singapore is a hot, humid, equatorial city:
The average daytime high temperature
hovers near 88 degrees. Second, it’s one of
the most expensive cities in the world. But
its wealth has created something special.
This week’s dream: Sensory overload in dazzling Singapore
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Singapore’s most storied
hotel looks grander than
ever, said Alyson Krueger in
The New York Times. The
1887 landmark recently was
renovated to appeal to a
younger generation without
compromising established
luxury standards: The lobby
has been stripped of gaudy
furnishings to show off the
architecture, while a once
nondescript grill has been
transformed into a pink-and-
purple bistro run by a three-
Michelin-starred French chef.
Though you can still order a
Singapore Sling at the Long
Bar, where the cocktail was
invented, the young crowd is
gravitating to the bookshelf-
lined Writers Bar.
raffles.com; doubles from $650
Hotel of the week
“The ports of Cleveland and Detroit do not nor-
mally enter into a conversation about cruises,”
said Jim Winnerman in The Orange County
Register. They do now, though, because tourist-
ship traffic is booming in the Great Lakes for the
first time since the 1950s. I recently enjoyed an
11-day adventure on a small Victory Cruise Lines
ship as it skipped among all five Great Lakes.
We began in Toronto, “a destination unto itself,”
then crisscrossed the U.S.-Canada border to take
in Niagara Falls, Detroit’s Henry Ford Museum,
Michigan’s Mackinac Island, and the Ojibwe
First Nation’s reservation on Manitoulin Island,
Ontario. Cleveland was a highlight: “Everyone
on board was amazed at the vitality of this flour-
ishing metropolis.” During our time on ship, we
enjoyed five-course meals and nightly concerts by
a trio while passing parades of islands where the
homes on one side flew Canadian flags and the
homes on the other flew the old Stars and Stripes.
Getting the flavor of...
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Visiting the National Museum, we were
impressed by Singapore’s rapid rise in the
first several decades after it was founded in
1819 as a trading post for the British East
India Company. A global, multicultural
powerhouse by the end of that century,
the city—comparable in size to New York
City’s five boroughs—is today a leader
in education, finance, technology, and
entertainment, as well as one of the
world’s safest, cleanest, and healthiest
countries. And English is the official
language.
We changed hotels twice to explore
different areas of the city, anchoring
ourselves at one point within short
walks of several major museums, the
famed Raffles Hotel, and a spectacu-
lar bayside park. Both the 203-acre
Singapore Botanic Gardens and the
Gardens by the Bay are must-sees, the
latter being the home of the world’s
tallest enclosed waterfall. But as beau-
tiful and green as our surroundings
were by day, “after nightfall the city trans-
formed itself into a nocturnal kaleidoscope
of color, especially down by the bay.” At
the Supertree Grove, in the Gardens by
the Bay, a light and sound show bathes a
stand of 100-foot-tall, man-made trees with
music and changing colors.
At the Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore
(kempinski.com), doubles start at $270.
Cruising the Great Lakes
Many of America’s small-town amusement parks
have shut down—but not Funland, said Chris
Lindsley in The Wash ing ton Post. The 1-acre
boardwalk attraction in Reho both Beach, Del.,
has barely changed since I worked there during
summers in the early 1980s. In fact, it’s almost
the same Funland that it’s been since 1962, when
Al Fasnacht and his family bought it. Fasnacht,
now 90, still operates the 40-cent kiddie rides six
or seven nights a week, and “there is no place he
would rather be.” Five of Funland’s 20 rides date
to the 1940s, and those rides, always gleaming,
“hold special meaning for families who have had
three and four generations ride them.” Rides like
the SuperFlip 360 offer modern thrills, but I pre-
fer the beachside park’s signature draw: a dark,
twisty ride through a haunted mansion. “The
ride still strikes a good balance of scary and fun,
just as I remembered it doing the first time I rode
it 40 years ago.”
A classic Delaware amusement park
Singapore
Raffles Hotel
The Supertree Grove, at the Gardens by the Bay