Spin-Off – September 2019

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Buckthorn Bark: Red Dye Recipe

The color in buckthorn bark is released in an alkaline solution. Alkaline solutions have a reputation for

destroying wool, with effects ranging from making it brittle to actually dissolving it. After experimentation

at medium heat, low heat, and no heat, I found that I got the best color with no heat over a fairly long

period of time. I also discovered that a very alkaline dyepot with no heat doesn’t seem to damage the wool

in any noticeable way. Buckthorn bark has tannin in it, so a mordant isn’t required.

1 

Collect some common buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) branches. Cut 6–10 branches that are 18

inches long and have diameters of ½–1 inch or so. The bark I used was gray on the outside, followed

by a green layer and then an orange layer. The larger the diameter of the branch, the darker and thicker the

orange layer of the bark seems to be. Trim the smaller branches off and strip the bark from the branch by

pulling and scraping with a serrated knife.

2 

Weigh the bark and the fiber you want to dye and add or subtract bark until you achieve a 2:1 ratio of

wool to buckthorn bark.

3 

Add water to a dye vessel (I use a five-gallon plastic paint pail) and add the buckthorn bark. The

amount of water isn’t important, but it should provide space for the fiber and yarn that will be added.

4 

Add a tablespoon of washing soda to the water and bark. The washing soda will create a very alkaline

solution with a pH of 11–13, and the color of the dyepot will change from light orange to a deep red

or wine color. Check the pH with test strips, which I purchase at my local drugstore, although they can also

be ordered online. Even though the pH is very high, my experiments have shown that you can safely add

yarn and fiber to the bath without noticeable damage as long as there’s no heat.

5 

Add the wool, cover the dyepot and place in a cool spot. I check the dyebath once a day for a week

or so to see how the color is developing and to make sure the pH is still at least 10. If the pH has

dropped below 10, remove the fiber, add another tablespoon of washing soda, and stir in the washing soda

before returning the fiber and yarn to the pot. I have left yarn in the dyebath for as long as a few weeks.

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After adding washing soda, the bark

bath will change to a wine color.

Bark from the com-

mon buckthorn will

have a green layer

and orange layer

when peeled.