40 TRAVEL+LEISURE | SEPTEMBER 2019
ASIA
W B R
VEA
HONG KONG
Your first impression of VEA
will likely be the restaurant’s
sense of whimsy: food comes
atop a music box playing a
wistful tune, or with scrolls of
poetry at the side, or spritzed
with wine from a perfume
bottle. All this drama could
easily veer into self-serious
pretension, but the tone is
lighthearted and joyous. Chef
Vicky Cheng is doing more
than cooking delicious food:
he is representing his home-
town, and doing it with heart.
Even without the specta-
cle, the cooking would have
held my rapt attention. One
of the most memorable
dishes I’ve had all year was
the crisp sea cucumber. After
being stuffed with a mousse-
line made from mud crab,
the spiny beast is placed on
a vibrant yellow sauce made
from the roe of the crab. A
spritz of Shaoxing wine fin-
ishes the dish. The things I
love about VEA are the things
that make Hong Kong such
a singular and wonderful
place. It is modern, but with
elements that are traditional,
stylish, and fun; it is interna-
tional while remaining
true to its roots. vea.hk;
tasting menu $215.
Smoked quail
eggs at VEA, in
Hong Kong’s
Central district.
JONATHAN MALONEY
