http://www.getwoodworking.com September 2019 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 73
WORKTOP
ROUTING JIGS
TECHNIQUE
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RATED EXCELLENT CATALOGUE17,000 PRODUCTS IN STOCK FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERYLOW TRADE PRICES!0808 168 28 28 IronmongeryDirect.comWorktop routing jigs are not exactly cheap,
especially if you’re only installing one kitchen.
But if you want the tightest possible joints and
cleanest cut-outs, then you’ll need to use a router.
Of course, you can make templates for curves
or straight cuts from MDF or plywood and use
a bearing-guided cutter, but for certain tasks
(such as jointing postformed laminate worktops)
it will be almost impossible to get a clean, precise
joint without a dedicated jig. These are designed
to be used with a guide bush fitted to the router
base. This runs inside an appropriate slot in the jig,
making the router easier to control when making
deep cuts. Heavier worktops generally finish
at 40mm thick, so a big router set at maximum
depth can be a bit unwieldy to use. A dedicated
jig makes the operation safer and you’re almost
guaranteed greater accuracy, with no chance of
the router tipping.
Both UJK and Trend appear to make almost
identical jigs, for which you’ll need a^1 ⁄ 2 in plunge
router, plus a 50mm 12.7mm straight cutter and
30mm guide bush. I used a Trend Professional
two-flute bit (^38 ⁄3D), which is ideal for worktop
plunge routing in hardwood or laminate, plus
their dedicated GB30 guide bush.
Sinks & hobs
Inset sinks and hobs will usually come with
a paper template for the aperture required
in the worktop. You simply tape or glue this
to the surface and follow the lines with a jigsaw,
followed by a router to tidy up the cuts. With
hardwood worktops, I prefer to draw the cut-out
required, which allows me to visualise the exact
opening more easily and adjust it sideways
if necessary. If installing a laminate worktop
you’ll get a cleaner jigsaw cut with the board
upside down, unless you use a down-cut blade.
Although the sawn edges won’t be seen, it’s
always neater to use a router for a professional
finish, with a guide clamp or batten for straight
cuts. However, the correct jig ensures you’ll get
dead accurate straight cuts, with the advantage
of neater corners too.Worktop joints
It’s arguably easier to make 90° joints in solid
hardwood worktops than in laminate tops. You
can true up an external sawn edge with a bench
plane in an oak worktop, for example, though it’sharder work with a laminate equivalent, which
has a chipboard core. Here, a power planer tends
to be more efficient than a hand plane as the
carbide knives will not blunt nearly so rapidly
as a tool steel blade. But achieving a dead square
edge with a planer is far from easy. Run a router
along a clamp or batten, though, and you’ll get
pretty accurate results.
Most kitchen worktop jigs include a straight
slot, which is designed for routing a straight end
with no risk of the cutter wandering off course.
Again, this can be quite tricky to achieve using
a circular saw on a laminate top, even with a
really fine-toothed blade.
However, the problem with plastic laminate
chipboard worktops is that front edges are
usually rounded over, or postformed. This makes
it almost impossible to get neat, 90° joints unless
you have an appropriate routing jig. Along with
a quality router bit and guide bush, you should
achieve a professional finish every time, though.
Whatever the material your worktop is made
from, plunge cuts should not be more than
10mm at a time, preferably less.Both UJK and Trend appear to make almost identical
jigs, for which you’ll need a^1 ⁄ 2 in plunge router, plus a
50mm 12.7mm straight cutter and 30mm guide bush
I used a Trend Professional two-flute bit, which
is ideal for worktop plunge routing in hardwood
or laminate, plus their GB30 guide bush
Inset sinks and hobs will usually come with a paper
template for the aperture required in the worktopWith hardwood worktops, I prefer to draw the
cut-out required, which allows me to visualise the
exact opening more easily and adjust it sideways
if necessary