AROUND THE HOUSE with Phil Davy
76 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking September 2019 http://www.getwoodworking.com
Then, with the cutter set at full depth you make
a final pass pushing the router away from you
(slot edge marked ‘FINISH CUT’)Three cut-outs are provided for routing worktop
connectors such as ZipboltsIt’s vital that the jig is cramped adequately before
routing and it’s wise to do a practice run first on
scrap material
These are straightforward to cut with exactly
the same bit and guide bush set-upSPECIFICATION
- Phenolic resin jig covers all common cuts
in kitchen worktop preparation - Enables 45° and 90° male and female cuts
- Apertures for 65-150mm worktop connectors
- Peninsular joints, square and 45° and 22.5°
angle cuts - Hinge recesses and tap holes
- Optional Angle Adjustment Plate allows
perfect out of square joints – 85° to 95°
(sold separately) - Supplied with full and comprehensive
instructions and a pack of four aligning pins
Typical price: £94
Web: http://www.axminster.co.ukTHE VERDICT
PROS
(^) Perfect results for postformed worktops;
easy to use
CONS
(^) Possible to get right-/left-hand
components mixed up
RATING: 4.5 out of 5
UJK VARIABLE ANGLE
WORKTOP JIG
USEFUL KIT/PRODUCT
If you’re installing laminate worktops it’s likely
these will be postformed, which means front
edges are already rounded. Unlike hardwood
worktops (which can be rounded over after
jointing), forming a 90° joint is a bit more
complicated. This UJK jig makes the procedure
easy, thankfully.
First, you need to establish whether the
joint is left- or right-handed. Fortunately the
instruction guide has clear diagrams, labelling
adjacent worktops either male or female as
appropriate. This is important, as depending
on the joint you’re forming, routing is carried
out from either side of the jig. It sounds more
complicated than it actually is, fortunately. The
jig itself is inscribed on both sides and includes
basic diagrams, so even without instructions all
is not lost. Like the Trend jig it’s 1,000 × 390mm
in size, 12mm thick and made from phenolic resin,
so it’s extremely durable. Four tapered pins are
provided for positioning. Postformed worktops
up to 700mm wide can be jointed at 90°, while
this reduces to a width of about 600mm if cutting
at 45°. The worktop is routed either face down
or face up, depending on whether it’s a male or
female edge you’re working on.
Rough & finish cuts
Positioning the jig is straightforward, with either
two or three tapered pins (male or female edge)
inserted in holes along the front edge. A fourth
pin is necessary for female cuts and is used in one
of 10 holes according to matching the worktop
width. These are marked from 250 up to 700mm.
It’s vital that the jig is cramped adequately
before routing and it’s wise to do a practice run
first on scrap material. The slots are a tad wider
than guide bush diameter, meaning there’s a bit
of play. This is intentional, so you first make a
series of stepped cuts right through the worktop
by pulling the router towards you (slot edge
marked ‘ROUGH CUT’), working from left to right.
Then, with the cutter set at full depth you make
a final pass pushing the router away from you
(slot edge marked ‘FINISH CUT’). The difference
between cuts is less than 1mm, but this is enough
to create a completely clean, square edge. Once
this has been cut, repeat the process on the
mating worktop, remembering to reverse this
regarding face side.
Out of square
Of course, not every kitchen has internal walls
that are completely square, so there’s a simple
trick up UJK’s sleeve. An optional variable angle
insert can be fitted to the jig, enabling you to
cut joints between 85 and 95°. It’s adjusted
via a bolt passing through a keyhole slot in
the jig and costs just £16.
Bolts & hinges
Three cut-outs are provided for routing
worktop connectors such as Zipbolts. These
are straightforward to cut with exactly the
same bit and guide bush set-up. If you’re making
your own doors or cupboard units, there’s also
a circular cut-out for routing standard 35mm
hinge recesses, too.
When routing either bolt or hinge recesses,
it’s important to set your cutter depth so you
don’t inadvertently cut right through the material.
Check the depth by making a cut on waste
material first.
Conclusion
Although it’s not necessary for hardwood
worktops, this UJK jig is ideal for jointing laminate
worktops precisely. Just remember that adjacent
worktops need to be turned over when cutting.