features in mind,” Zoe explains. “For example, if you were
making a hardwearing jumper to put over a polo-neck, a
Herdwick wool would be perfect for keeping you warm
and dry for years and years. But if you wanted to make a
soft, drapey jumper to wear next to your skin, you
probably wouldn’t make it with a Herdwick yarn, but a
soft Shetland wool, or a Castlemilk Moorit, would be more
appropriate, and would come in a range of natural colours.
“So I set myself a challenge: to collect a sample of yarn
and fleece from each of the 72 pure breeds, and create a
designer’s toolkit that could be used by others,” Zoe says.
“I met with local farmers, designers, knitters, crafters and
spinning mills, and began to build up my collection.”
Zoe analysed the micron count and staple length of
each of her 72 breed samples – the two fundamental
measurements determining the properties of wool. But
what do these terms actually mean? “A micron is a unit
of length equal to one millionth of a metre, used in many
technological and scientific fields,” explains Zoe. “This is
an industry measurement of the diameter of a single wool
fibre – the lower the micron count number, the finer the
fibre is. So, if you wanted to spin some really fine yarns for
men’s suits, for example, you would be looking for a low
micron count. A higher micron count does not always
mean that the end yarn cannot be silky and soft - it just
can’t be spun as finely.”
Staple length, meanwhile, is the average length of a
breed’s fibres. “Staple length is important as it determines
which spinning process is best suited for the fibres, and
what blends can be mixed depending on the desired
outcomes,” says Zoe. “Worsted spinning lends itself to
using longer fibres to produce silkier lustre yarns, andwoollen processing has traditionally been used for the
shorter staple lengths to create a springy, ‘airy’ wool.
However, most lengths of fibres can be interchanged
between the two spinning processes if blended - it
depends on the yarn qualities you want.”Facts and figures
Zoe used the results of her research to develop physical
and digital ‘toolkits’ that could be used by anyone
interested in purebreed wool. “The physical toolkit
includes a sample hank of each of the 72 pure breeds,
samples of the fibres under a microscope, and a yarn or
knitted sample. There is also a data sheet which includes
not just the technical data, but an overview of the heritage
of the breed. A mini book gives an overview of each breed,
and is presented alongside a little laser-cut wooden sheep
which displays a yarn sample of the breed – I take these
to exhibitions, workshops and shows, so that people can
touch and feel the different qualities of breeds.”
Her display of fleece, yarns and breed information was
a big draw at the Edinburgh Yarn Festival. “I had such a
great time at EYF, and spoke to so many amazing people- so much so I had lost my voice by the end of the
weekend!” laughs Zoe. “It was great to see how yarn users
engage and want to find out more about all the different
breeds available, and how unique each breed’s fibre
characteristics are – and how these make the end yarn
feel and act so differently. I have a few more special events
planned for this year, which I will announce on Instagram
and on my website when tickets are released.”
Zoe’s digital toolkit, meanwhile, is aimed at providing
a useful resource to the yarn industry. “The digital
5
4
3
3 Zoe collected wool samples
from farmers and spinning mills
4 Understanding the unique fibre
characteristics of each breed is
useful for designers and knitters
5 Zoe loves meeting sheep, such
as these at Blaze Farm in Cheshire!Zoe analysed each
breed’s micron count
and staple lengthInterview
The Knitter Issue 141