SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019
30 BACKPACKER.COMPHOTO
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CALTOPOPlay List
WEEKENDS
EASTERN
CANYONLAND
BLACK FOREST TRAIL, PENNSYLVANIA
I SWEAR THIS trail is giving me amnesia. Over the last two hours or so, I felt the
grind as I climbed yet another thousand feet out of a deep, steep gorge. But at the
summit of Hemlock Mountain, my memory of the struggle is wiped totally clear:
Pine Creek cuts into the forested, emerald hills, creating what locals call the
Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania. I want to get lost in the view across the 400-foot-
wide ravine, but I cannot linger. Up next is a thousand-foot descent followed by
a 1,300-foot climb. Chances are good I’ll forget those hills as well. But I’ll always
remember having this land of wilderness, waterfalls, and bubbling springs all to
myself. By Ryan UtzWILDLIFE
This vast forest is home to a cast of creatures
more commonly associated with the West,
including black bears, bald eagles, and
bobcats. In warm, sunny conditions, be wary
of timber rattlers, especially on the final
descent of a rocky ridge at mile 40. The many
streams the trail crosses (including Slate Run)
afford excellent angling opportunities,
including a chance to catch (and release)
native brook trout.TOWERING TREES
The forests along Black Forest Trail were
clear-cut for timber more than a century ago.
However, one giant hemlock that avoided the
sawmill (and the pests) still stands at the end
of a.4-mile spur at mile 35.1. The impressive
girth (4-foot diameter) and stature (about
120 feet) of this specimen offer a glimpse of
what these forests once looked like.DO IT TRAILHEAD Slate Run (41.4743,
-77.5116); less than 2 miles uphill from the
village of Slate Run across the creek from Pine
Creek Road. SEASON Year-round; mid-
September to mid-October is the best for fall
foliage. PERMIT None, but a few ecologically
sensitive spots along Slate Run ask you to self-
register. CONTACT bit.do/BlackForestTrailTURN-BY-TURN FROM THE VILLAGE OF SLATE RUN
1) Note the orange blazes. The 42-mile Black
Forest Trail is a long and winding route with
connections to other nearby trail systems, but
it’s well-marked.
2) Start by hiking north up a 1,200-foot ridge.
After a few miles, give all the elevation back
as the trail bottoms out at Slate Run (mile 6),
a primo trout stream.
3) At mile 13, the trail crosses PA- 44. After a
long descent along County Line Branch, climb
to the Barrens (mile 19), where stunted forest
allows for downcanyon views.
4) Cross PA- 44 again at mile 23. 5, followed
by a series of climbs and descents in and out
of small tributaries of Pine Creek.
5) Optional: At mile 31 you can hike Naval
Creek Run Road for about a mile to arriveback at Slate Run village if you want a shorter
itinerary. Otherwise, most of the remaining 11
miles run along a plateau until mile 40, where
you will take in the final views of Slate Run
valley and descend.CAMPSITES
Camping is allowed almost anywhere along
the trail (usual LNT caveats notwithstanding),
and you’ll likely encounter established sites
every 2 miles or so. This creates an
opportunity to take the trail at your own pace.
Fancy moving water? Find sites with nearby
waterfalls at miles 7, 15, 27, and 31. If views are
more your thing (and you still want water),
throw down at miles 10, 18, 24, and 36. You
can’t go wrong, and the abundance means
you won’t have to share.15
Distance 42.2 miles (loop)
Time 3 to 5 days
DifficultyA top-down view
into the Grand Canyon
of Pennsylvania