Backpacker – September 2019

(Darren Dugan) #1
Nevertheless, I persevered and faced
into the wind and oncoming chop. I still
felt a hint of excitement at the thought of
my secluded camp, but mostly I felt appre-
hension—I was past the break, but the open
ocean was no better. The weight of the
board and bags made travel sluggish in the
headwind and current. I adjusted my stance
farther back, but nothing could keep the
nose out of the water. It was like trying to
pull a sled up a muddy hill. I slogged forward
then drifted back, over and over.
After 20 minutes of hard paddling, I
turned around to gauge my progress. I could
almost still see my footprints in the half-
mile distant sand. I did the math. At this
pace it would take me 10 hours to reach my
destination—woefully longer than the two
hours I had planned. What more torture
could the ocean hold in store? I glanced back
longingly at the beautifully solid, unmoving
dry land.
I paddled on for another 10 minutes,
trying to turn a corner around the coast
in hopes that the wind would be calmer
there. But it wasn’t, and where the two cur-
rents converged, the waves only got bigger.
I went up a large swell, then plunged back
down. The sudden motion threw me off bal-
ance and I fell into the water, limbs f lailing.

Spitting saltwater, I f loated with my hands
on the board, trying to catch my breath,
watching the land go by in the wrong direc-
tion. I quietly mumbled a couple of four
letter words.
In that moment, I realized what an awful
time I was having. It was like hiking during
an earthquake—no stable ground and never
in rhythm, the ocean constantly attack-
ing me, no moment to stop and appreciate
nature. What was the point? I let the cur-
rent turn my board around and started back
for shore.
I dragged my gear onto the beach feeling
utterly defeated. I hope to one day become
a better paddler and try again to explore
some of Hawaii’s isolated coves. But for
now, I think it’s best that I keep backpack-
ing and ocean SUPing separate. Turns out,
the whole isn’t always greater than the sum
of its parts.

Skill
School SUCCESSFULLY^
SUP CAMP

Opt for calm waters.
Sharpen your skills on flat lakes and
bays. When you’re ready to graduate to
the open ocean, avoid windy days, and
be prepared to swim.

Go ultra-ultralight.
Even the bare minimum will weigh down
your board, making it hard to steer. Pack
gear in compact, watertight bags, and
keep balance in mind when lashing them
to the attachment points on your board.

Overestimate distance.
Wind, current, and weather can
significantly slow your pace. Your first
overnight route should have ample
camping options so you can bail early if
necessary, but still spend the night out.

Hone your technique.
Stand centered on the board with your
feet hip-width apart. For max efficiency,
engage your core as you pull back. Keep
your head up and gaze forward—looking
down makes it hard to stay balanced.

It ’s one thing to paddle in a calm bay or lake —
it’s another to tackle the ocean with a full load.
Optimistic planning and lack of experience left
me at the mercy of the high seas.

FAIL


THE VERDICT

See page 38 for paddling fitness tips.

The Mother of Comfort · bigagnes.com


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