I
’ve traveled to Jamaica
more times than I can
count, and each time I
go it’s hard to leave. When I
do leave, I’m already mak-
ing plans to return, which
I’ve done consistently for
the past 20 years. The
island has that effect on me.
My connection to Jamaica
runs deep. It’s where my
people are from. My father
was born in Hannah Town, a
close-knit community on
the west coast in Kingston,
Jamaica’s capital city. When
he was 8, the family moved
southeast to Vineyard Town,
where he has fond memo-
ries of walking to Gunboat
Beach every Sunday with
his late father, whom we
affectionately called Father,
and all seven sons in tow.
Situated on the north
coast in Saint Ann, the larg-
est parish on the island, is
the small rural settlement
of Alexandria. That’s where
my mother’s family is from.
Boasting impressive ocean
views, Alexandria has become a popular site for luxury
vacation rentals, but back then it had vast areas of farmland
nestled in plush countryside. My mother’s grandpa Washy
farmed the family land there until he was 98.
In 2010 I road-tripped around the island with a friend
who was penning a Jamaica travel guide. I tagged along for
moral support and because he promised to introduce me to
a Jamaica I’d never seen—a thriving island with hidden gems
tucked away in all 14 parishes. We journeyed beyond the
gates and walls of my upscale, all-inclusive resort to
uncover a more authentic Jamaican experience—but we
bypassed the untapped beauty of the island’s best-kept
secret, its less explored south coast, along the way. Since
I always find a reason to return home, this time around I was
determined to discover the south coast.
Venturing south is not as easy as getting to popular resort
towns like Montego Bay, Ocho Rios and Negril, but the pic-
turesque drive from Sangster International or Norman ManleyInternational airports is
worth it. You’ll spot almond
trees towering over their
neighbors in the bush,
herds of goats claiming
their space on the road,
and idyllic beaches and
fishing villages. And
when you finally arrive,
red-skinned, red-haired,
blue-eyed natives, said
to be the descendants
of Scottish sailors who
were shipwrecked here in
the nineteenth century,
greet you with a smile.
STAY: Jakes (jakeshotel.com)
is a boutique hotel on Trea-
sure Beach with options for
every traveler. From ocean-
front bungalows and cot-
tages to luxury villas that
come with a gracious staff,
it’s the ideal home base.
EXPERIENCE: YS Falls (ys
falls.com) is hidden in St. Eliz-
abeth’s lush jungles. Rope
swing into the cascading
waters or chill in spring-
fed pools and admire the
century-old guango trees.
EXPLORE: Lovers Leap (876-965-6887) got its name because
legend has it that rather than be torn from each other by a jeal-
ous plantation owner, two slaves fled to this cliff, 1,700 feet above
sea level, and jumped. The storied spot promises next-level views.
INDULGE: Jack Sprat (876-965-3583) serves up some of the best
seafood on the south coast. Order escovitch fish with steamed
veggies and a side of bammy. Little Ochie Seafood Restaurant
& Bar (876-852-6430) is another must. Pick your fish and tell chef
Blackie just how you want it.
VISIT: Floyd’s Pelican Beach Bar (876-354-4218), perched on
stilts in the ocean, has the island’s purest vibes. Before you go,
have one of the Rastamen hand-carve your name in the wood.Metanoya Z. Webb is ESSENCE’s
lifestyle director. She’s lived in London,
Costa Rica and Belize but now calls
Brooklyn home.Fall in love with
the serenity of
Treasure Beach.Kick back
at Dougie’s.Indulge in locally
grown fare on the
south coast.FR
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ESSENCE.COM I 155 I SEPTEMBER 2019