For stubborn spots and melasma,
derms prescribe the potent fading
agent hydroquinone, which can
visibly reduce pigment in four
weeks and may be used for up to
three months at a time; OTC
versions can safely be used longer.
The melanin-blocking mushroom
extract kojic acid and vitamin B
derivative niacinamide are also
proven spot minimizers.
TRY: Murad Rapid Age Spot and
Pigment Lightening Serum, with hydro-
quinone; $72, murad.com. Niacinamide-
powered Marmur MMBalance Serum;
$85, marmurmetamorphosis.com.
Opt for an ultra-gentle cleanser,
and “avoid scrubs, exfoliants, and
peels, which can stoke the fire,”
Gohara says. Ava Shamban pre-
scribes Finacea for rosacea; its
plant-derived azelaic acid eases
swelling and redness. Pulsed-dye
vascular lasers, such as V-Beam,
can also help dial down redness
by sealing the tiny blood vessels
that cause it.
TRY: Clinique Redness Solutions
Soothing Cleanser, with calming
lactobacillus and cucumber extracts;
from $24, clinique.com.
Do. Not. Pop. Instead, dab on
hydrocortisone cream for daytime,
and a salicylic-acid treatment
(for oily types) or benzoyl-peroxide
treatment at night. Aid exfoliation
with daily glycolic-acid-pad
swipes. If you have recurrent break-
outs, consider blue-light therapy
to preemptively kill bacteria.
At-home devices can be used daily;
a derm will typically do two
sessions a week for three months.
TRY: Dermalogica Age Bright Spot
Fa de r, which has salicylic acid plus
niacinamide to diminish discoloration;
$45, dermalogica.com.
Hide imperfections with a light-
weight tinted CC (“color correcting”)
cream. Pick one with protective
antioxidants and SPF 30 (or higher),
since “UV radiation can darken
already discolored skin in a matter
of minutes,” says Adam Friedman.
For darker spots, apply a build-
able concealer—ideally one that
also contains a skin brightener,
such as vitamin C.
TRY: It Cosmetics Your Skin But Better
CC+ Cream SPF 50+, in 12 full-coverage
shades; $39, itcosmetics.com. E.L.F.
HD Lifting Concealer, with vitamin C
and green tea; $4, elfcosmetics.com.
Know your triggers. For instance,
a dietary swap (e.g., avoiding spicy
stuff) can prevent flare-ups.
When you do get one, defuse it with
an anti-inflammatory moisturizer.
Look for a formula with ceramides,
prebiotics, chamomile, colloidal
oatmeal, niacinamide, or poly-
phenols—all will help extinguish
the irritation and bolster
the skin barrier, says Friedman.
TRY: La Roche-Posay Rosaliac Tinted
Moisturizer CC Cream—it reduces
inflammation with ambophenol; $39,
laroche-posay.us.
Apply a cucumber slice for a few
minutes to bring down the inflam-
mation, Shamban says. Then put
a little Visine on the blemish “to
reduce redness,” and follow with a
tacky, opaque concealer. Need to
blitz it pronto? “The only real quick
fix for an angry pimple,” says
Friedman, “is to go to your dermatol-
ogist for a steroid injection. That
will do the trick in 12 to 24 hours.”
TRY: Jouer Essential High Coverage
Liquid Concealer, in 25 matte
shades for seamless camouflage;
$22, jouer.com.
1
DARK SPOTS
THE PROBLEM: Hyperpigmentation (aka
brown patches) happens when the skin over-
produces melanin. The most common culprit
is UV exposure. “Light-skinned people can
develop solar lentigines, or sun spots, as early
as their mid-20s,” says Mona Gohara. Darker
skin can get them too, but it’s more prone
to melasma (larger blotches around the eyes
or on the forehead, brought out by sun or
hormones) or post-inflammatory scars from
irritations like bug bites. Topicals can treat
sun spots and melasma; bug bites fade
naturally, but more slowly (think weeks) as we
age and skin-cell turnover slows.
2
ROSACE A
THE PROBLEM: This red, sometimes bumpy
flushing is often accompanied by enlarged
pores; broken capillaries; and sensitivity
to sun, environmental irritants, and skin-care
products. It can strike at any age, but typi-
cally emerges in your 40s and 50s. For many,
the condition is exacerbated by hormonal
shifts, temperature changes, spicy food,
alcohol, or “anything that triggers your nerves
or immune system,” says Ellen Marmur.
3
PIMPLES
THE PROBLEM: Hormonal fluctuations and
stress cause most adult breakouts by sending
oil glands into overdrive. When that happens,
Gohara says, “bacteria settle in to feed on
the oil.” That creates blackheads (when the
hair follicle in the pore is open and dead
skin cells react with oxygen in the air and
darken) or whiteheads (when the pore
closes over the debris, trapping it inside).
Other potential suspects include sweat,
pore-clogging makeup, and “constant pres-
sure from a cell phone,” says Friedman.
The Solution The Fast FIx
OUR EXPERTS: Adam Friedman, a Washington, D.C., dermatologist; Mona Gohara, a New Haven, Connecticut, dermatologist;
Ellen Marmur, a New York City dermatologist; Ava Shamban, a Beverly Hills dermatologist.
54 SEPTEMBER 2019
PETER ARDITO
