3724 August 2019 THE WEEKFood &DrinkLEISUREHungarian furmint isagrape variety
to watch, says David Williams in The
Observer. It has long been known as
the base of the country’s great
sweet wine, Tokaji. But it’s in its
incarnation asadry white that
it’s making waves right now.Sainsbury’sTaste the
Difference RoyalTokaji Dry
Furmint, Hungary 2017(£10 )offerin ga
“tongue-tingling mouthful of Cox’s apple”.
If you like that, I’d also recommend theRoyal
Tokaji MézesMály Furmint Dry 2016
(£17.99; Ministry of Drinks), whichcombines
“resonantfruit richness,awaxinessoft exture
anddelicate floral notes”.There’sa“similar ripe tanginess combined
with the steely swish” of acidity inHetszolo
Tokaji DryFurmint 2016 (£17; The Good
Wine Shop), whileKardos Furmint, Hungary
2017 (£10.99; Kwoff) hasaracy, citrussy style
that’s perfectwith fish.Tornai Pincészet
Furmint2016(£12 ;ForestWines.com),has
abrisk peachiness not unlike viognier or
albariño. AndIlove the richness ofKolonics
Somlói Furmint, Hungary2017(£13.50;
The Wine Society).What the experts recommend
Haywards Restaurant111 Bell
Common, Epping, Essex (01992-577350)
This six-year-old, Michelin Plate-holding,
husband-and-wife operation inapretty
converted stables on the edge of Epping
Forest deploys “significant levels of chefly
firepower” to striking effect, says Keith
Miller in The Daily Telegraph. The food,
served ina“suavely neutral” space, offers
bold and original flavours:a“fantastic”
main course of roast cauliflower didn’t
follow the “beaten path of Ottolenghoid
orientalism”, but arrived withaSicilian-
style sauce of pine nuts, raisins and capers
(more usually served with fish) and some
“lovely” little cylindrical ricotta
dumplings. There are interesting takes on
familiar treats:a“Proper Sunday Roast”
of côte de boeuf and braised ox cheek for
two, with all the trimmings, for example.
And there is beautiful presentation too:
leaves, flowers, micro-squeezings and, in
the case of my quail starter,a“crisped-up
squiggle of rösti that belonged onahat in
aCecil Beaton photograph”, artfully
arranged to jazz up the main ingredients.
Lunch for two £140.The Swan4Shipton Road, Ascott-under-
Wychwood, Oxfordshire (01993-832332)
The Swan at Ascott-under-Wychwood is
a“great big, newly upgraded, spanking
bloody excellent Cotswolds pub”, says
Giles Coren in The Times. And asalover
of the Cotswolds, and fantastic pubs, “Imean that as about the biggest compliment
Ican muster”. The interior has been
“beautifully painted, in all its reassuring
vastness, in aristocratic greys and greens,
so that it holds deep, sheltering cool on a
raging hot summer’s day likeaserious old
country house”. And outside there’s a
lovely courtyard, two walls of which are
half-roofed, offering welcome shade. As
for the menu, it’sa“hotchpotch of
reimagined pub classics, mostly brilliant”
–and all of it local, hearty and modern.
The best of the starters wasabowl of
barbecued prawns with peas, ina“rich,
spicy, yabbering sauce” of garlic butter
and ’nduja–ameaty shellfish dish with“delirious porky juices in the bottom and
real Mediterranean heft”. And we enjoyed
“sharing” baked potatoes with an
“unctuous stew of super-surrendered”
beef cheeks inaBourguignonne gravy.
Plus lots of “shimmering fresh veg” and
“multicoloured knickerbocker glories for
the kids”. What more do you want?
Around £45ahead.SirenThe Goring, 15 Beeston Place,
London SW1 (020-7769 4485)
There’s no escaping the seafood theme at
Siren, the new restaurant from “piscine
king” Nathan Outlaw at the Goring hotel,
says Tom Parker Bowles in The Mail on
Sunday. Glass lobsters crawl up glass
chandeliers; menus are clad in shagreen.
There are “spiky glass sea urchin things”
on the marble-topped tables, and napkin
holders in the shape of golden seaweed.
It’s “just the right side of too much”. And
the food is as impressive as you’d expect
with Outlaw and his head chef Andrew
Sawyer behind the stoves. Cuttlefish black
pudding is “gentle, soft and subtle”, with
a“sharp and tart” apple catsup to add
bite. Beautifully cooked turbot is “so
damned freshIswearIsaw it wink”, and
is served withacrab sauce that’s so “deep
and richly flavoured that it hasacaramel
burr”. The Cornish crab risotto looked
magnificent, butIwasn’t allowedabite.
“Too good to share”, reckoned my
companion.About £50ahead.Siren: as impressive as you’d expect- Remove the pit from
the avocado and scoop the
flesh intoablender. Add the
almond milk, pistachio nuts,
coconut milk, agave syrup
(or honey) and either the
pistachio paste or almond
extract. Blend until really
smooth. Add the lemon
juice and blend briefly
to combine. - If you have an ice-cream
machine, use this to churn
the mixture according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. Or, if you
are not usingamachine,
transfer the mixture to a
freezer-proof container.
Freeze for2hours, then
stir very thoroughly with
afork to break up the ice
crystals. Return to the
freezer and continue to stir
well every hour until the
ice cream is smooth and
frozen. It should take about
6hours in total.- Spoon the ice cream into
serving dishes or cones and sprinkle
with chopped pistachios to serve.
Recipe of the weekMakes approximately 750ml 1large avocado (about 200g) 500ml plus2tbsps
of almond milk 60g unsalted shelled pistachio nuts, chopped, plus extra to serve
125ml coconut milk 150g agave syrup or clear honey 2tsp pistachio paste, or
afew drops of almond extract 1tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
ice cream cones, to serve (optional) ice-cream machine (optional)One of my favourite flavours of ice cream, says Louise Pickford, butawhole lot
healthier–and vegan!Ilike to add pistachio paste for the extra colour, but if
you can’t find any, then just use almond extract; the flavour is very similar.Sweet switchAvocado and pistachio softiesTaken fromPopsicle Partyby Louise Pickford, published by
Ryland Peters&Small at £7.99. To buy from The Week Bookshop
for £6.99, call 020-3176 3835 or visit theweek.co.uk/bookshop. For our latest offers, visittheweekwines.com
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ECIPE IMAGE: IAN WALLACE