Bead & Button – October 2019

60 October 2019

nuggets of knowledge

Learn to identify silver and other look-alikes.

by Renée Newman

All that glistens

is not silver

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Imagine that you’ve just inherited a large

box of silver-colored jewelry. You’d like to

know if any of it is real silver, and if some

of it might be white gold, platinum, or

palladium. This can be determined with

a combination of the following six tests.

MAGNET TEST

Touch a magnet to the metal portion of the jewelry. If it picks up the

jewelry, then the jewelry is not gold, silver, palladium, or platinum;

it is probably steel or iron. This is often the first test that major pre-

cious metal buyers use to sort out fake silver and gold. Some plati-

num alloyed with cobalt is attracted to magnets, but the magnetism

is not strong enough to pick up a platinum piece.

Magnets can be purchased at toy or hardware stores in various

strengths. For details and links for this and the other five tests, visit

FacetJewelry.com and search the terms “Silver Detective.”

FINENESS STAMP TEST

Look for a fineness mark on the piece. Fineness is the

amount of silver, gold, platinum, or palladium in relation

to 1,000 parts. For example, the fineness of sterling silver

is 925, whereas that of platinum is usually either 950 or 900.

Fineness marks on chains, bracelets, and necklaces are

typically placed on the clasp. Some marks are readable

with the naked eye, but it’s easier to decipher them with

a 5- or 10-power hand magnifier. The karat or fineness

stamp is only an indication of the silver, gold, or platinum

content, not proof. On the other hand, the lack of a mark

doesn’t necessarily mean the piece is made of a base metal.

TRADEMARK TEST

Look for a manufacturer’s mark along with the fineness or

karat stamp. This is added assurance that the metal content

is as stamped, and it is mandatory if the precious metal con-

tent is stamped on the piece. If there is no fineness stamp,

a trademark is not required. Keep in mind that existing

trademarks and hallmarks can be counterfeited, and fake

ones can be created. So even if the jewelry has a trademark,

it should still be tested, especially if you’re not familiar

with the trademark and the type of jewelry that a particular

manufacturer produces.

CLOSED BACK TEST

If the jewelry contains gemstones, look at the back of the

setting. Is the bottom of the stone blocked from view or

enclosed in metal? Does the stone look like it has been glued

in rather than set? Fake stones are commonly set or glued

in fake-silver or -gold mountings. Genuine gems set in

precious metals usually have open-back settings.

“LW” is the maker’s mark for Louise Walker.

For more details on identifying silver

jewelry, visit FacetJewelry.com

The left photo shows a closed back; to the

right is an open-backed setting.

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