Her World Singapore – September 2019

HW FEATURE

At another Peranakan

restaurant, Godmama, head

chef Fredric Goh presents

heirloom recipes with

subtle twists – he replaces

traditional popiah rice skin

crepe with a handmade

wrap of soft egg skin for the

All-star Egg Skin Popiah.

It’s a winner: The fi rm,

chewy egg-skin crepe

wraps around moist, sweet,

cut-by-hand vegetables. A

sprinkling of crispy shallots

enhances the fl avours.

The eatery’s weekend

brunch menu features

another interesting dish:

Buah Keluak Bolognese

Pasta.

“Buah Keluak is an

acquired taste,” Fredric

explains. “I’m trying to

do something special

for younger consumers

by reintroducing classic

dishes so as to get them to

appreciate the cuisine.”

As for traditional

Teochew food, once a

perennial favourite among

the older generation, it’s fast

disappearing from the local

food scene. So, executive

chef Chan Ka Cheong of Zui

Yu Xuan Teochew Cuisine

is taking a fi ne-ingredient

approach to it.

He selects premium

crabs sourced from

Singapore and Australia

that have creamy roe and

sweet, moist fl esh, for the

restaurant’s most popular

Cold Crab dish.

While many eateries

serve this dish with black

vinegar and ginger, Chef Ka

Cheong’s version comes with

a piquant kumquat plum

dipping sauce to enhance the

natural fl avours of the crab.

He adds: “We also need

to educate and groom our

younger generation of chefs

to ensure that the art of the

cuisine is passed on.”

Pig Trotter Terrine, for

example, is a time-honoured

Teochew delicacy. At this

restaurant, preparing it is

a meticulous exercise. The

trotters, belly, skin, bones,

fat and ingredients are

slow-cooked in soup stock

for eight hours until the

mixture forms a mouth-

watering jelly. The terrine,

with its chewy yet tender

texture, melts in the mouth.

The verdict: surprisingly

light, with a slightly acidic

taste that lingers without any

overpowering meatiness. It

is accompanied by a tangy

homemade chilli sauce.

GODMAMA NOKA

INDIGOBLUE

KITCHEN

ZUIYUXUAN

TEOCHEWCUISINE

WHATELSEISGOOD:

NasiUlam(steamedrice)

istossedwitha variety

ofherbsandingredients,

includinggrago(baby

krill),givingit colouranda

robustfavour.

WHATELSEISGOOD:

RefreshingTomatoSalad

isa starterdishofox

heartorganictomatoes

androoftopherbswith

yuzupeppervinaigrette.

WHAT ELSE IS GOOD:

Satay Babi Lemak

comprises premium pork

stir-fried in candlenut-

spiced coconut cream

sauce with kaffir lime

leaves. And the Chicken

Satay uses a Japanese-

izakaya skewering

technique.

WHAT ELSE IS GOOD:

Local Lobster Wok Baked

with Fermented Bean

and Garlic Teochew

Style features Australian

lobster tails coated in

butter, fermented bean

and garlic. The lobster

meat is tender, and each

bite is flavourful.

#04-07 FUNAN MALL #07-38 FUNAN MALL 

#03-09/10/11

SHAW CENTRE

FAR EAST SQUARE,

130/131 AMOY STREET

Nonya Popiah,

$18, Indigo

Blue Kitchen.

124 HERWORLD SEPT 2019