108 | 100% Biker | issue 250 | http://www.100-biker.com
to make the base, I measured down to the cross tie under the second drawer and
added an inch to that and then drew a line all the way around (Fig.4) using a large
framing square before taking a disc cutter to the cabinet. Make sure that the locking
mechanism is in the downmost position before you chop the cabinet in half. With the
cabinet bifurcated, turn the top half upside down and you’ll see there’s a channel in
each corner to carry the runners, I cut the rearmost one (Fig.5) down with the grinder,
but ended up notching the two box section side rails slightly anyway to fit between the
front channels and the rear of the cabinet (Fig.6).
With those clamped in place (Fig.7), measure between them for the cross pieces – the
sides were 22 inches and the cross piece 16½ inches if memory serves. With the cabinet
upside down on a flat surface and the box section checked for square and level, the box
section can be welded on the top face and inner corners before being removed and the
other face welded. I chose to leave the outer corners unwelded and ground the top and
bottom welds flush before refitting the frame into the base of the cabinet. To secure the
frame in the cabinet the sides were drilled and five 1/8-inch pop rivets used on each
side with a further four across the back (Fig.8). The lower ends of the front channels
were also pop riveted to the skin of the cabinet to further stiffen things. If you’re
planning on putting a lot of weight in the cabinet, then it’s worth adding extra rivets to
attach the back to the sides, and several more to hold the front channels firmly in place.
I think the best choice for castors is to have two fixed ones and two steering ones that
lock. I used some 75kg-rated 75mm rubber tyre castors from Tool Station that came
to about 12 for all four, although, in the past, I’ve pinched them off of bread trolleys,
SHED HEAD
I THINK THE BEST CHOICE FOR CASTORS IS TO HAVE TWO
FIXED ONES AND TWO STEERING ONES THAT LOCK
Fig.^6 Fig.^7
Fig.^5
Fig. 8
Fig.^9
Fig. 4
etc, but you really do need to have two
locking ones. The castors are just welded
to the frame (Fig.9), taking care to avoid
inhaling the fumes from the zinc plating.
Then I painted it all satin black.
So far, so good, but because I was
aiming for a mobile work bench I had a
swivel vice that I wanted to mount on it
and the belt sander was going on there
too instead of blocking the spindle on the
lathe. Since the idea here was to put the
power tools in the bottom drawer, then it
made sense to have somewhere to house
an extension lead and a four-way socket.
I found a sheet of 18mm ply in the corner
which could have been sourced from a
wood recycling project or the offcut bin
by the B&Q (or anyone else’s) panel saw
for cutting sheets to size. The top was
cut to have a 2-inch overhang at the back
and a 1-inch overhang on one side. Once
it was cut out it was drilled to bolt to the