Wine Enthusiast – October 2019

WINEMAG.COM | 127

9 4

Landmark 2016 La Encantada Vineyard

Pinot Noir ( Sta. Rita Hills ). Taut aromas of

red plum, pomegranate, crushed gravel, damp riv-

erbed and clay make for a fruity yet mineral-laced

nose. Candied raspberry and crisp pomegranate fl a-

vors lead into wild thyme and cracked pepper on the

palate. — M.K.

abv: 14.2% Price: $ 55

9 4

Mindego Ridge 2016 Pinot Noir ( Santa Cruz

Mountains ). From a vineyard high atop

the mountain ridges over the Peninsula, this is an

extremely focused wine, starting with aromas of soil

and rocks against the hearty blackberry backdrop.

The palate is fuller bodied yet with earth more than

fruit, combining loam, forest fl oor and mushrooms

with black plum and wild berry fl avors. Drink now

through 2036. Cellar Selection. — M.K.

abv: 13.9% Price: $ 48

9 4

Mount Eden Vineyards 2016 Estate Bottled

Chardonnay ( Santa Cruz Mountains ). The

nose on this bottling blends savory depth with

fl oral lightness, combining sandalwood, seared

Meyer lemon peels, butterscotch, hot sandstone

and fl ashes of honeysuckle on the nose. Sea salt

and nectarine lead toward marshmallow and wood

in the fi nish, wrapped in a structure that’s fi rm but

seamless. — M.K.

abv: 13.5% Price: $ 60

9 4

Paul Dolan 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Men-

docino County ). This is a huge, muscular

but agile wine made from organically grown grapes.

Fragrant aromas of French oak spices are followed

by concentrated layers of black cherry, cinnamon,

black currant and clove. Supported by a big, velvety

frame of soft tannins, it is seductive now and will

improve through 2026. Cellar Selection. — J.G.

abv: 14.5% Price: $ 25

9 4

Renato Ratti 2015 Conca ( Barolo ). Aromas

of rose, exotic spice, camphor and wood-

land berry shape the nose. Focused and linear, the

elegant palate off ers juicy raspberry, strawberry

compote and star anise alongside taut, fi ne-grained

tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2021–2027. LUX

Wines. — K.O.

abv: 14% Price: $ 130

9 4

Rowen 2015 600L Cabernet Sauvignon

( Sonoma County ). This wine is from the

producer’s high-elevation Cooley Ranch Vine-

yard and blended with 20% Petit Verdot. It off ers

aromas of sage, cedar and oak on the nose. Full in

weight and intensely powerful, it has thick, rich lay-

ers of cherry, cola and cassis that await further inte-

gration. Enjoy 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. — V. B.

abv: 15% Price: $ 150

9 4

S.A. Prüm 2015 Graacher Dompropst Dry

Riesling GG Grosse Lage Gold Cap ( Mosel ).

Full bodied and dry, this is a silky, intensely pen-

etrating sip that’s studded with pristine lemon,

grapefruit and lime fl avors. It’s lusciously ripe and

concentrated, but deft ly balanced against a fi rm

backbone of acidity and layers of crystalline miner-

ality. It’s gorgeous already but will improve through

2030 and hold for even longer. Taub Family Selec-

tions. Editors’ Choice. — A.I.

abv: 13% Price: $ 72

9 3

Center of Effort 2015 Rosso Corsa Pinot

Noir ( Edna Valley ). Aromas of boysenberry,

loamy earth, mint and a pinch of anise show on the

nose. The palate plays up the loamy earth as well,

which gives a mineral depth to the black cherry,

black plum and cocoa fl avors. — M.K.

abv: 14.4% Price: $ 80

9 3

Daou 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Paso Robles ).

Aromas of black plum, black olive and violet

lead into a texturally dynamic palate loaded with

ripe but not overdone black currant, baking spice

and vanilla fl avors. Strong acidity drives the fi nish.

Editors’ Choice. — M.K.

abv: 14.5% Price: $ 28