Food & Wine USA – September 2019

SEPTEMBER 2019 109

BEFORE OPENING my new restaurant, Cabra, I traveled to Peru to spend some
time with chef Gastón Acurio and eat my way around Lima, Arequipa, and
Cuzco. While I was visiting the Miraflores neighborhood in Lima, I ate at
the most amazing restaurant called Grimanesa Anticucheria. It is a tiny
place run by Grimanesa Vargas, who has decades of experience cooking
anticuchos, meat that is marinated in chiles and cooked over hot flames.
She cooked it first at a very popular cart and now at her own restaurant.
The menu is short, with just a few types of anticuchos including beef heart
and chicken. Local chiles called ají panca permeate the marinade; they have
a distinct, earthy spiciness to them. At Cabra, inspired by those skewers,
we serve a handful of anticuchos, including this chicken version, which
we serve with a Huacatay Dipping Sauce (recipe p. 118), a spicy, creamy
condiment flavored with huacatay, or black mint paste. —Stephanie Izard,
chef-owner of Cabra, Duck Duck Goat, Girl & the Goat, and Little Goat in
Chicago and a 2011 F&W Best New Chef

SERIOUSLY GOOD SKEWERS

LIMA, PERU

Peruvian Chicken Skewers

ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 35 MIN

MAKES 8 SKEWERS

Peruvian anticuchos de pollo are coated in

a thick chile marinade that withstands the

heat of the grill and clings to the chicken,

yielding caramelized, charred bits.

(^1) / (^2) cup ají panca paste (about 4 oz.)
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. gochujang
1 Tbsp. tamari or soy sauce
11 / 2 tsp. toasted cumin seeds
(^1) / 4 tsp. dried Mexican oregano
(^1) / 8 tsp. black pepper
1 large garlic clove
11 / 2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken
thighs, cut into 1-inch cubes
Huacatay Dipping Sauce
(recipe p. 118)

1. Soak 8 (12-inch) wooden skewers in
   water 30 minutes.


2. Meanwhile, preheat grill to very high
   (500°F to 550°F). Place ají panca paste,
   olive oil, vinegar, gochujang, tamari,
   cumin, oregano, pepper, and garlic in a
   blender; process until smooth, about 1
   minute. Transfer mixture to a medium
   bowl; add chicken, and stir to coat. Let
   stand 5 minutes at room temperature.


3. Remove skewers from water. Thread 4
   to 5 chicken pieces onto each skewer,
   leaving a^1 / 2 -inch space between pieces.
   Place kebabs on oiled grates; grill, cov-
   ered, until charred and cooked through,
   about 4 minutes per side. Serve with hua-
   catay dipping sauce.
   WINE Lively South American red: 2016
   Veramonte Ritual Pinot Noir