SEPTEMBER 2019 117
melded, about 15 minutes. Remove from
heat, and let cool 10 minutes. Transfer to
a bowl, and refrigerate, uncovered, until
completely cool, about 2 hours.
—CARLA HALL
MAKE AHEAD Store in an airtight
container in refrigerator up to 2 weeks.Zucchini and Buttermilk Soup
PHOTO P. 108
ACTIVE 1 HR; TOTAL 3 HR 20 MIN
SERVES 6This version of okroshka, a Russian chilled
soup, is garnished with chopped vegeta-
bles, eggs, pickles, and fish roe. The
tangy buttermilk in this recipe highlights
zucchini’s mild sweetness and light veg-
etal flavor. Look for pickled pattypan
squash at Middle Eastern groceries; if you
can’t find it, substitute diced dill pickles.13 / 4 lb. zucchini plus 1 small (4-oz.)
zucchini, divided
2 cups buttermilk
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
6 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled
5 Tbsp. sunflower or extra-virgin olive
oil, divided
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into^1 / 4 -
inch cubes (about 2^1 / 2 cups)
6 oz. pickled pattypan squash, cut
into^1 / 4 -inch cubes (about 1 cup)(^1) / 4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill
6 oz. trout roe or salmon roe
Fresh dill leaves, for garnish
- Fill a steamer pot with 1 inch of water;
add steamer insert (water should not
touch bottom of basket). Bring water to a
boil over medium-high; reduce heat to
medium to maintain a simmer. - Meanwhile, peel 1^3 / 4 pounds zucchini,
and cut into 2-inch-thick pieces. Lay zuc-
chini pieces flat in steamer basket. Cover
and cook until zucchini is tender when
pierced with a paring knife, about 15 min-
utes. Transfer zucchini to a medium bowl;
let cool 10 minutes. - Transfer zucchini (including any liquid
from zucchini accumulated in bowl) to a
blender; add buttermilk. Process until
smooth, about 25 seconds. Using the bot-
tom of a ladle, push squash mixture
through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a
large bowl; discard any solids. Repeat
straining procedure a second time until
soup is very smooth. Stir in 1^3 / 4 teaspoons
salt. Refrigerate, uncovered, until chilled,
about 2 hours.
(^1) / 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley, plus more for garnish
Pineapple-Habanero Relish (recipe
follows)
Lemon wedges, for serving
- Place shrimp on their sides on a cutting
board. Holding shrimp by the tail and
using a rolling pin or meat mallet, tap
each shrimp lightly until slightly flattened
(a b o u t^3 / 8 inch thick), 3 to 5 times. - Pour oil to a depth of^1 / 4 inch in a large
cast-iron skillet, and heat over medium-
high until hot but not smoking. - Meanwhile, whisk together flour, corn-
starch, paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, and^1 / 2
teaspoon pepper in a shallow dish. Whisk
together eggs in a large bowl until frothy;
whisk in evaporated milk, parsley, remain-
ing^1 / 2 teaspoon salt, and remaining^1 / 2 tea-
spoon pepper. - Working in batches, dip shrimp in egg
mixture, allowing excess to drip off.
Dredge in flour mixture; shake off
excess. Add to hot oil, without crowding,
and fry until golden and crisp, about 1
minute per side. (Adjust heat between
batches to maintain temperature as
needed.) Drain on a wire rack set inside a
rimmed baking sheet; sprinkle with salt
to taste. - Transfer shrimp to a large serving plat-
ter. Garnish with parsley, and serve with
relish and lemon wedges for squeezing.
—CARLA HALL
Pineapple-Habanero Relish
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN
MAKES ABOUT 1^1 / 2 CUPS
The fresh pineapple is key here; its sweet-
ness and acidity balance out this spicy
blend of chiles. Stem and seed the chiles
for a milder version, or keep the seeds for
more heat.
7 red Fresno chiles or other large hot
red chiles (about 5^1 / 2 oz.), finely
chopped (about^3 / 4 cup)
(^3) / 4 cup white vinegar
(^1) / 2 cup finely chopped fresh pineapple
1 habanero chile, finely chopped
(about 1 Tbsp.)
11 /^2 tsp. finely chopped garlic
(^1) / 2 tsp. kosher salt
Stir together Fresno chiles, vinegar, pine-
apple, habanero, garlic, and salt in a
medium saucepan. Bring to a vigorous
boil over high. Reduce heat to medium,
and gently boil, stirring occasionally,
until chiles are tender and flavors have
- Cut 5 eggs into^1 / 4 -inch pieces; transfer
to a small bowl, and gently stir in^1 / 4 tea-
spoon salt. Slice remaining egg length-
wise into 6 slices. Set egg slices aside. - Cut remaining small zucchini into^1 / 4 -
inch cubes to equal^1 / 2 cup. (Reserve any
remaining zucchini for another use.) Heat
a large cast-iron skillet over high until very
hot, about 4 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon
oil; swirl to coat. Add zucchini cubes;
cook, stirring often, until crisp-tender,
about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium
bowl. Add 3 tablespoons oil and potatoes
to skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until
potatoes are tender and browned, 12 to 14
minutes. Let cool 15 minutes. Transfer
potatoes to bowl with zucchini, and stir in
pickled pattypan squash cubes, chives,
dill, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and
remaining 1 teaspoon salt. - Ladle about^3 / 4 cup chilled zucchini
soup into each of 6 shallow bowls.
Top servings evenly with potato mixture,
chopped eggs, egg slices, and roe.
Garnish with dill leaves.
—BONNIE MORALES
Steamed Rockfish
with Thai Citrus
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN
SERVES 4Infused with intense aromatics that are
tamed with a hint of coconut oil, this show-
stopping whole fish is swimming in bright
Thai flavor. Rockfish are native to the
Pacific; substitute sustainably caught red
snapper, if needed.1 medium shallot
5 fresh green peppercorns
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled
1 (2-inch) piece fresh turmeric,
peeled(^1) / (^2) lemongrass bulb, cut into thin
rounds (about 1 Tbsp.)
3 makrut lime leaves, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
(^1) / 2 tsp. palm sugar or granulated sugar
3 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. coconut oil, divided