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40 JULY 2018 VOGUE.COMVLIFE“There are some pieces we spent 3,000 hours on over thecourse of a month,” says the meticulous Steinmetz, 32. “Wehandweave our own fabrics here,” she continues, leading meinto her North London studio space, her adorable foxlikePom, Buzz, circling her feet. “I became interested in reproduc-ing jeans because they are a very common piece of clothing,usually made industrially, which is the complete opposite ofwhat I do,” says Steinmetz, who learned to loom her own den-im after watching YouTube tutorials—amillennial fashion fairy tale.Steinmetz began her studies at Ate-lier Chardon Savard in Paris, movedto London to complete her masters atCentral Saint Martins, and then headedoff to work for Jeremy Scott and Danishdesigner Henrik Vibskov. Her crush ondenim, though, began with her grand-mother, who would wear her Levi’s with a simple trench, acashmere turtleneck, and Chanel ballerinas “in an arrondisse-ment full of bouclé and pearls.” This season, Steinmetzplays further with the essentialism of the French wardrobe:models with governess coiffures (graced with tortoiseshellhair combs) in appropriated trench coats that run the gamutfrom a sedate-yet-chic mac to a voluminous monogrammedblanket coat. A riff on an equestrian-print Hermès silk scarf,meanwhile, is repositioned as either a pencil skirt or a tour-de-force top encrusted in crystals. Such edgy glamour would cer-tainly make a winning red-carpet statement in our awakenedtimes—simply add the de rigueur deconstructed jean jacket.``````“It’s a kind of ordinary couture,” Steinmetz says. “Af-ter all, utilitarian pieces and the banal deserve attentionand artisanal techniques too.” The results are at oncebold, tough, and elegant—as seen on the oversize men’sjackets and loose-fit pants of her spring 2018 collection,which unite harmoniously with wafty tablecloth-floraltops. “Can you be a revolutionary and still like flow-ers?” ponders the designer, echoing the question posedby the French artist Camille Henrot,whose edgy flower installations in-spired the citrus-bright roses screen-printed on white silk.And it’s not just the roomyready-to-wear that nods to the ear-ly aughts. Steinmetz’s accessoriesalso pay homage to one of the era’sprized status symbols—the Fendibaguette—in ethical and sustainable canvas. (As I try oneon, it’s almost impossible not to hum the plunky, marim-ba-centric Sex and the City theme song). “I wanted torevisit things that were very atypical in luxury fashion,” shesays. FS logo belts on ultra-long straps made from cottonand recycled plastic, meanwhile, are the perfect additionto roomy carpenter jeans.Up next: a new collaboration with a women’s craft collec-tive she’s been working with in Burkina Faso. “Vegan fashionhas so few options—I’m just proud to be one of the peoplehelping to define those options,” Steinmetz says. “A lot ofpeople are feeling this way now.”—EMMA ELWICK-BATES“It’s a kind of ordinarycouture—utilitarianpieces deserve artisanaltechniques too”TELEVISION On EdgeIF THRILLERS HAVE TAUGHTus anything, it’s that nowhereis more sinister than anAmerican small town. Wevisit a doozy in HBO’s SharpObjects, a psychologicallycharged limited seriesadapted by Marti Noxonfrom Gillian Flynn’s bestsellerand directed by Jean-MarcVallée. Amy Adams starsas Camille Preaker, a boozySt. Louis reporter sent toher hometown of WindGap, Missouri, to cover themurder of one girl and thedisappearance of another,an assignment that puts herunder the imperious eye ofher mother, Adora, a jittery,judgmental socialite played byPatricia Clarkson as a crossbetween Martha Stewart and``````Blanche DuBois. Althoughan attractive cop (ChrisMessina, excellent) provesan ally, Camille struggleswith suspicious locals and apast she found suffocating.As he showed in Wild andBig Little Lies, Quebecoisdirector Vallée has a knack forhelping actresses expose rawnew corners of their psyche.Casting off her Lois Lanesweetness, the Emmy-boundAdams dazzles as a woundedsoul, as self-destructive as sheis smart, who discovers thatyou can go home again—butthat it awaits you with openjaws.—JOHN POWERS``````KILLER INSTINCTSAMY ADAMS, PHOTOGRAPHED BYANNIE LEIBOVITZ, VOGUE, 2014.