Lonely Planet India – August 2019

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became a green park that pulled together neighbourhoods
previously separated by the road. Wander through it today
and you’ll see people rollerblading through manicured gardens,
pass skate parks and tennis courts, breathe in scents of pine trees
and lavender, and hear birdsong. Splashing about in the river
itself are species of swans, ducks and silver herons, newly
restored to their natural habitat. “Ten years ago, the whole area
was considered the outskirts of Madrid,” says Ana. “Now it has
become a place for couples and young families. It represents
a renewal of somewhere that was not used by madrileños.”
Impressively, 45 per cent of Madrid is considered to be green
space, the second highest proportion of any city in the world
(Prague is number one). But not all of its communal spaces
are parks. El Campo de la Cebada stands out as exciting,
partly because of its newness and partly because of the sheer
variety in how it is used. The area inside the graffiti-spattered
walls has become a venue for everything from basketball
matches to political rallies. Located a mile north of Madrid Río,
adjacent to the old farmers’ market at Plaza de la Cebada, the
space was created almost by accident when the local authority
demolished an old swimming pool and ran out of money
to pay for its replacement. It is a place, locals say, created
‘for and by neighbours’. Madrid’s love affair with the outdoor
life is clearly about having a place for citizens to come together.
Madrid Río: nearest Metro stops Príncipe Pío or Puerta del Ángel
picalagartos.com; http://www.mercadodelacebada.com

1 & 2.
The new landscapes
of Madrid Río
and its urban beach


  1. El Campo
    de la Cebada


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76 August 2019
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