Lonely Planet India – August 2019

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MAKE IT HAPPEN: THE NEW MADRID


Essentials
GETTING THERE^
AND AROUND
Aeroflot, Qatar Airways, Emirates,
Ukraine International Airlines, Virgin
Atlantic, Alitalia, SWISS and Turkish
Airlines all have connecting flights
to Madrid from all major metropolitan
cities in India. Air India flies directly
to Madrid from New Delhi
(returnfaresfrom`51,000).

VISA
To visit Madrid, you must have
a Schengen visa. It usually takes
about 14 to 28 business days to
process and will cost you around
` 6,000 (www.vfsglobal.com/India/
Spain/In-Madrid).
CURRENCY
1 USD=`78.40
EMBASSY ALERT
Embassy of India,
Madrid, Spain:
http://www.eoimadrid.gov.in
VEG OUT/ FANCY
A CURRY?
Purnima Indian Cuisine is
a hidden gem in the city of Madrid
that serves delicious Indian meal.
They sure do know their makhanis
and curries well, according to reviews
from locals and travellers from far
and wide (00-34-910-70-96-10;
http://www.purnima.se; Calle de Goya,
11 0 ,2 8 0 0 9 ).
FURTHER INFORMATION
Madrid’s official tourism website has
plenty of information to help you plan
your itinerary (www.esmadrid.com).
For further reading, pick up the Lonely
Planet's Madrid city guide (` 1,120 )
or download a PDF at http://www.
lonelyplanet.com (` 260).

Hostal Persalis a highlightamongthelimitedbudget
accommodation in central Madrid, housed in a 19th-century
building with smart blue awnings and simple rooms featuring
graphic artworks. Located near the old heart of the city, in the
Barrio de Las Letras district, it’s close to Plaza Mayor and the
Prado, so is well placed for sightseeing. There’s also a relaxing
library space in which to recuperate afterwards
(www.hostalpersal.com/en; rooms from ` 5,350).

Hotel Puerta América is the result of a unique project that brought
together 19 of the world’s top architects and design studios,
among them Norman Foster and Zaha Hadid. Each of the 12
floors bears a different signature; the first floor features Hadid’s
minimalistic and sci-fi-inspired Space Club suites. Head to
The Observatory restaurant on the roof for DJ sets,cocktailsand
views from the Skynight lounge. A glass walkwayconnecting
the two areas is giddying good fun (www.hotelpuertamerica.
com; rooms from ` 6,000).

Hotel Tótem is an upmarket hotel with 64 rooms and
suites in the historically wealthy neighbourhood
of Salamanca, a short walk from restaurant
Amazónico. The guest rooms are elegant, with
an emphasis on minimalist modern design.
The real highlight is the hotel’s cocktail bar,
with deep-blue sofas illuminated by the natural
light that pours through the glass roof.
Bartenders wearing bow ties and pouring
perfect negronis add a touch of old-school
glamour (www.totem-madrid.com;
rooms from ` 11,000).

BEHIND THE SCENES
This was my first trip following the death
of Anthony Bourdain. The chef-turned-TV host
was an inspiration to me, as he remains to
many travellers, so I made a pilgrimage in
his memory to Casa Salvador (Calle de
B a rbie ri 12). Featured in a 2010 episode
of No Reservations, it’s a family restaurant once
beloved of Madrid’s bullfighting elite. Tony
sat, ate and riffed with owner Pepe Blázquez
about former patrons Ernest Hemingway and
Ava Gardner (she used to dance on the tables,
apparently). Pepe’s daughter, María Ángeles
Blázquez, took over when her father died,
and she picked me for a Bourdain fan the
moment I ordered the oxtail stew.

MAPKEY
Amazónico
El Matadero
La Cabra
MadridRío
Mercadode
la Cebada
MercadodeMotores
Picalagartos
SkyBar
Platea
SalaEquis
Tripea
SLEEPING
HostalPersal
HotelPuertaAmérica
HotelTótem

WHERE TO STAY


80 August 2019

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