http://www.camc.com September 2019 Caravan and Motorhome Club Magazine
You may remember that last month I mentioned
that I was about to set off on a ‘slow road’
adventure in France. Well, we’re back, having had
a great time!
We made it as far south as Île de Ré near La
Rochelle, following a route down the west coast
to explore a few of the islands in the Atlantic. First
Quiberon, where there is a fabulous drive along
the Côte Sauvage, and then the Île de Noirmoutier,
where the Huttopia site is in a protected forest
right next to a lovely, sheltered beach – p28 of the
Venture Abroad brochure, site code A45.
You can cross the bridge to the island or take the
very slow road – a causeway that’s only exposed at
low water. I know the French love their seafood
COLUMN MARTIN DOREY
Writer, cook and campervan owner Martin Dorey i s a n ex p er t at r u st l i n g up ta st y
treats on tour. This month he samples seafood along France’s west coast
MEMBER SINCE...
Campervanner Martin Dorey
joined the Club in 2016
The Cook recommends...
La Cabane de la Patache, a tiny
beachside bar near Les Portes-en-Ré
with views over the water. Book early
for a table almost on the sand, sit back
and enjoy the food while watching the
world go by.
And as a main...
When you’re this close to the water
there’s only one thing to try: fresh,
local seafood.
23
but I was really surprised to see so many people on
the causeway digging for clams and cockles. There
were hundreds of them!
Each of the islands has a different character and
low-rise Île de Ré – with its salt flats, marshland
and tiny villages of cobbled streets and closely-
packed, whitewashed houses – was our favourite.
There are beaches to suit surfers, swimmers,
boaters and sun-worshippers. It’s a great place to
cycle too, with villages and ports connected by
bike routes, many of which are traffic free. Each
village has a market selling typical French produce,
from nectarines and peaches to oysters and
The Campervan
Cook
mussels. We took full advantage! One evening
we visited the Phare des Baleines, an impressive
stone lighthouse built in 1849. Afterwards, at
a nearby beach, we discovered a tiny shack with
a few tables free. Never one to resist some
good food (the smells were amazing) we nabbed
a spot, ordered a couple of beers and enjoyed a
plate of fruits de mer, which included whelks,
shrimps, prawns and oysters. The verdict? Pas
mal, despite my partner Lizzy having to brace
herself before eating the whelks!
RECIPE No.20
Moules in cream
with bacon
Serves four
Ingredients
4kg of fresh mussels
A glass of rosé
A pack of smoked bacon, chopped
1 white onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic
A handful of chopped parsley
150ml of cream
Method
This dish is really quick and easy to make –
similar to moules marinière and absolutely
delicious. You’ll really love it if you want to
remember the fabulous dishes you’ve enjoyed
on your hols in France.
First, prep the mussels by debearding and
cleaning them. Some people advocate leaving
them overnight in fresh water with oats, but
I usually just clean and rinse them in fresh
water and leave them for about half an hour.
Discard any that float.
Cook the bacon until crispy in a large pan,
then remove and put aside. Fry the onion in the
bacon fat until soft, then add the garlic. After
a minute or so add the rosé and then, when it’s
bubbling, add the mussels to the pan and put
on a lid. Steam the mussels for about four or
five minutes until they open, shaking the pan
every so often. Finally, put the bacon back into
the pan, turn off the heat, add the cream and
the chopped parsley and stir.
Serve with crusty white bread and butter.
Vive La France!
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