FineScale Modeler – October 2019

(Martin Jones) #1
http://www.FineScale.com 27

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I didn’t use the template to attach the other
side. Instead, the wheels were set on the axles
and the other bogie units set onto them. The
wheels guided the remaining bogies in place.


Then, the bogie units were carefully cut from
the suspension housings using a razor saw.


Details were added to the housings inside and
out using Grandt Line bolts and rivets, as well
as bolt heads from the kit. At this point,
assembly was pretty easy.


Mark locations you’ll need later, such as the
placement of the leaf-spring through-bolt
detail.


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7


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Once the bogies were dry, I set the axles into
the template and the side of the large
suspension unit set at the marked angle. Then
it was a simple matter to glue them in place.

The bogies were marked before proceeding,
so they could be accurately reattached.

The deception: I cut thin sheet styrene to fit
into the recess on the sides. With filling, this
created a flat surface for M1917 detail.

Each unit was glued in place separately and
allowed to dry before the next was attached to
ensure proper alignment.

The kit’s post-WWI steel idlers could be
modified for use on the M1917, which lacks
spokes in the web between the rim and axle.
But, I decided to make my own wheels.

To bolster the bogies and add gluing surface
for when they are reattached, I extended them
with sheet styrene; extra strips ensured the
joins stayed together.

Some FTs and M1917s, sit back at about 3
degrees and I wanted to incorporate it into this
model. Step 1 was to make a template for the
axles, then add a 3-degree tilt to it.

I filled the flanges of the wheels with sections
of styrene tube glued in place and sanded
flush. A square hole was added to each wheel
and return roller to represent an oil filler.
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