BUTT WAIT,
THERE’S MORE...
EVERY welding machine is set up differently. There isn’t one set of
numbers or a magical button that suits all jobs, and this is probably the
first major hurdle for beginners to overcome. Time spent experimenting
and getting to know your machine is really the only way forward. While
it’s all well and good to jump onto a machine that has already been set
up, most operators will have their own specific setting that suits them.
These are just a few of the methods I have used over the years. The
results will vary from job to job, and when you have limited access to
certain areas, different techniques are required. As with everything, it just
takes practice; the challenge is half the fun. Good luck. s
WORKABILTY
AFTER a quick run though the English
wheel, you can see the MIG weld is harder
than the surrounding material and already
starting to show signs of cracking, while the
TIG weld will last all day.
In TIG welding, the parent metals are simply (in this instance) fused
together, leaving it malleable. The weld is not hardened and can easily
be sanded down to clean up. This also means it is ideal for working into
shape to get the best finish.
These MIG welds will need grinding down, sometimes exposing areas
that didn’t receive enough penetration. This and any impurities will
end up leaving pinholes that require a few more tack welds and more
grinding. At this point things are no longer overly workable. MIG
welding will leave sheet metal hardened, and any hammer work can
lead to the welded area cracking. This is not ideal for metal finishing.
3
THE
CLEAN-UP
MMMMIGGGG TTTIIGGG
One-handed
operation; fast
learning curve; point-
and-shoot
Leaves area
hardened;
spatter; not a TIG
No spatter
means you
can weld inside a
vehicle without having
to cover or strip the
interior; stronger and
malleable/workable
welds; faster welding
time; no ‘grinding’; job
satisfaction
The occasional
requirement
of two hands
PROS
CONS
MIG OR TIG?