Gambero Rosso – July-August 2019

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MAKING CRAFT BEER
WITHIN A
MULTINATIONAL
The brew-
ing con-
text of
15 years
ago gave
more fer-
vor than it does today:
there were so many
enthusiasts who ap-
proached it with incred-
ible enthusiasm. Today,
on the other hand, there
is a lot of competition,
enthusiasm has fallen
and there is a very tough
market. Producing arti-
sanal and independent
beer and producing it as
part of a multinational
company represent two
different faces of the
same world: when you
are a craftsman you
think above all of the
idea and not necessar-
ily foresee what you will
do next; in a multina-
tional you also have to
think about everything
else, how will you know
that product, how much
it costs and so on. I see
the world of craftsman-
ship certainly growing,
but I also see some dif-
ficulties because of the
high competition and
above all for the ever-
increasing supply. I am
convinced, however,
that after this period a
second wave of greater
awareness will begin.



  • Leonardo
    Di Vincenzo,
    founder of Birra del
    Borgo


THE UNIVERSE OF CRAFT BEER

(through the creation of pseudo-territorial
beers, the use of various hops or the produc-
tion of unfiltered and “raw” beers) not realiz-
ing that the risk is that the industry will come
out as the winner, because with capital and
means it succeeds in arriving where the arti-
san cannot. This is why in this context, which
is varied and the result of different paths, we
think that some factors are still lacking (how-
ever much has been done), starting from a
basic beer culture, widespread among con-
sumers and not only relegated to the mere
production sector. Nowadays we find craft
beers in many places, but in how many signs
do we find publicans (pub managers or wait-
ers, sommeliers, bankers) who can explain
them, who know how to argue? And yet, giv-
en the quality achieved, how many producers
have managed to create real commercial net-
works, how many are using marketing levers
properly? Perhaps still few, if we relate to the
investments made or, as mentioned several
times, to the qualitative level reached. These

are themes that should be taken into consid-
eration by the artisanal production sector in
order to create a strong movement in all its
components, also because the virtuous ex-
amples are all right. «We also need to start from
the territory - Utzeri replies - Better a smaller
brewery, perhaps with a tap room where to serve
pints; relying on a neighborhood clientele can be
an idea. Smaller companies, but easier to man-
age, with lots of beer sold locally. We must en-
hance the figure of the publican and, above all,
we must be careful of trends, made of beers built
at the table, to surprise the patrons». The same
is true of Agostino Arioli: «The risk of being di-
luted by the crafty approach is pressing and real.
The most inalienable values to be leveraged in
the immediate future are localism (support your
local brewery!) And independence». Equally re-
membering the social role of beer. That was,
is, and must be something popular, to share.
Especially if produced with artisan methods
that enhance the work of many small entre-
preneurs. 
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