Gripped – August 2019

(Ron) #1

Historic Rattlesnake


Re-equip
The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (oac)
organized The Rattlesnake Project in part-
nership with Conservation Halton, with the
goal of creating new sport routes for climb-
ers to enjoy. In the end, they bolted 30 new
routes, mostly from 5. 6 to 5. 8 , and created
spaces for learning about rope systems.
Bolting the routes wasn’t cheap, the whole
project cost over $ 5 ,000. We encou ra ge
Ontario climbers to donate to the oac, so
it can continue to maintain access. The
routes were showcased at the first annual
Rattlesnake Spring Fling, which brought
together industry leaders to mentor new
climbers on and off the rock.
The rock talk mentorship clinic was
an opportunity for experienced locals to
pass along their values and traditions to
the next generation. The goal was to help
shape the behaviour of new climbers so
that they respect crags and climb safely.
From discouraging guitars and boomboxes
to encouraging safe anchor setups, the oac
discussed and practiced communication
styles that have been shown to be helpful
in changing people’s behaviour. The clinic
was based on behaviour-change science
and was a big success. With dozens of new
climbers taking part at the event, everyone
had good things to say.
The intro to rock clinic brought together
dozens of new climbers from the gym to
the crag. Open to all ages, there was a
diverse group of participants. And the fall
safe clinic taught participants how to face
the fear of falling on lead, to belay better
and to be a more efficient climber. Other
clinics included a sport climbing one, which
reviewed the skills needed to make a safe
transition from sport climbing in the gym
to sport climbing outdoors, including: how
to safely lower off a climb; stick clipping the
first bolt; stick clipping past a crux on the
climb; outdoor safety hazards; and the out-
door climbers code of conduct.—Gripped
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