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Removing Stop Moulding
Those restoring or maintaining an old house will need to remove a moulding from time
to time. A common example: Whenever you take out double-hung window sash (to repair
ropes or chains, replace glass or reputty, or do a full window restoration), you have to
remove the stop mouldings. These often are locked into the jamb with miter joints at both
ends—necessitating that you bow the moulding just a bit to allow the nails to clear the
wood. Most wood species do not bend sufficiently and consequently split or break. (You may
have encountered “two-piece” stop mouldings, where a broken moulding has been forced
together and nailed in place.) When you reinstall stop moulding, consider using trim head
screws left flush to the surface, so the next homeowner will have it easier. By Ray TschoepeWRONG WAY
PRYING A FIXED MOULDING
The simple method would seem to involve a pry
bar forced into the space between the moulding
and the jamb. Leverage the pry until nails clear the
substrate, then remove the moulding. It works when
the moulding can be freed from at least one end.
When mitered or coped joints are involved, however,
bending the moulding may cause it to crack.USING A HACKSAW
For these situations, first break the paint film with a
utility knife and carefully work the end of a thin, stiff
scraper blade into the seam between the stop moulding
and the jamb. Open a space just sufficient to slip in a
hacksaw blade. Saw through all fasteners and remove
the stop moulding. The cut nail ends can be removed
if there is sufficient length to grab onto. If not, force
them deeper into the wood using a small nail set.RIGHT WAY