2019-09-01_Elle_UK

ELLE.COM/UK September 2O19

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TheREFERENCES...

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There are plenty of reasons to think we’ve been thrown back into the early

2OOOs: Paris Hilton and Kim Kardashian in chain-mail minidressesin

the music video for Hilton’s single B.F. A. (Best Friend’s Ass). Samantha

Mumba releasing new music and Westlife on a comeback tour. Ann

Widdecombe returning to politics. That, and satin cowl-necks, dinky

It bags and cutaway tops on the AW19 catwalks. Fashion lovesa

trip into the past, and early 2OOOs style is the latest addition tothe

runway’s increasingly eclectic mix of throwback looks. Those 2O -year-

old pieces join turn-of-the-century frock coats, 198Os tailoring and

all sorts from decades past to create this distinct

‘anything goes’ approach to dressing.

At Givenchy, Gucci and more, vintage-inspired

pieces formed the foundations of looks that

packed a contemporary punch. Designers used

‘wonky’ layering, mixing everything from clashing

prints to acid-wash denim, and went heavy on

accessories, to drive old-school ideas into 2O19.

‘It’s about throwing on a vintage or attic find with

something like a punky boot or a leather jogging-

pant,’ Clare Waight Keller told us backstage at

her show in March, explaining her approach to Givenchy’s AW19

collection. ‘It’s the mix of the two elements together that felt fresh to me.’

At his namesake label, Jonathan Anderson echoed the sentiment

of building on retro styles, adding chain-link chokers, door-knocker

brooches and trompe l’oeil marabou for a modern update. ‘The trousers

are based on Oxford-bag [styles] from the 192Os. It was nice to pull

pieces out and reinterpret them for now. It creates an awkward elegance,

which I think is like Britain. Everything’s a little awkward,’ he laughed.

The old maxim that ‘everything old is new again’ seems more

significant when you consider that the wave of vintage-inspired

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Celine by

Hedi Slimane