Saveur – July 2019

36 SAVEUR.COM

RANGE Pad Thai

Thai Tamarind Water

(Naam Makham Piak)

MAKES 1¼ CUPS

Active: 10 min. • Total: 45 min.

The sticky pulp of the tamarind

fruit is popular in sweet and savory

dishes, and beverages in tropical

regions (see “Sour Patch,” p. 100).

Palm Sugar Syrup

(Naam Cheuam

Naam Taan Piip)

MAKES 2 CUPS

Total: 15 min.

Dissolving palm sugar makes it

easier to incorporate into pad

thai sauce. Look for the soft and

scoopable version, sold in small

tubs at Asian markets. If substi-

tuting the fi rmer disks of palm

sugar, coarsely chop before

using to ensure it dissolves fully.

1½ cups (10 oz.) coconut

palm sugar (preferably

Thai)

In a small pot, add the palm

sugar and 1¼ cups water. Bring

to a boil over hig h heat, then

immediately turn off the heat,

and whisk until the sugar has

completely dissolved. Let cool to

room temperature. Use immedi-

ately or refrigerate in an airtight

container for up to 3 months.

Pad Thai with Pork and
Shrimp (Phat Thai
Ruam Mit)
SERVES 2; Photo p. 33
Active: 1 hr. • Total: 1 hr. 10 min.

Maximizing the ingredients’ con-
tact with the wok is essential, so
chef Andy Ricker advises against
doubling this recipe, which is
adapted from his book with writer
JJ Goode, Pok Pok Noodles. If
you are cooking for a group, take
a cue from Thai noodle vendors
and batch out however many
servings you’d like to prepare in
advance. The sauce recipe here
makes enough for 6 batches
(12 servings total).

For the sauce:
1 cup Thai Tamarind Water
(below)
¾ cup Palm Sugar Syrup
(below)
½ cup Thai fi sh sauce, plus
more for serving

For the stir-fry:
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. medium
dried shrimp
2 cups (4 oz.) wide sen
lek (semi-dried, fl at rice
noodles)
2 Tbsp. lard or canola oil
4 medium fresh shrimp
(2 oz.), peeled and deveined
3 Tbsp. (1½ oz.) ground pork
1 large egg, at room
temperature
¼ cup unfl avored pressed
(extra-fi rm) tofu (1¼ oz.),
sliced ¼-inch thick
2 Tbsp. shredded Thai
salted radish, soaked in
cold water for 10 minutes,
rinsed, and drained well
1 cup lightly packed soybean
sprouts, plus more for
serving
¼ cup fresh garlic chives,

sliced into 1½-inch lengths,

plus more for topping

1 Tbsp. chopped roasted,

unsalted peanuts, plus

more for topping

For serving:

Lime wedges or halved key

limes

Fresh banana blossoms, very

thinly sliced (optional)

Phrik pon khua (Thai toasted

chile powder, see p. 100)

Raw cane sugar

1 Make the sauce: In a small bowl,

add the tamarind water, the pre-

pared syrup, and the fi sh sauce,

and stir well to combine. (Cover

and refrigerate leftovers for up to

3 months.)

2 Make the stir-fry: Using kitchen

shears, snip the noodles into

8-inch pieces. In a medium bowl,

add the cut noodles and enough

lukewarm water to cover them by

1 inch. Set aside to soak until very

pliable, about 30 minutes. Drain,

discarding the liquid, and set the

noodles by the stove.

3 In a small bowl, add the dried

shrimp and enoug h cold water

to cover them by 1 inch. Let soak

for 10 minute s , then dra in, briefl y

rinse, and pat dry.

4 In a fl at-bottomed wok or small,

dry skillet over medium heat, add

the shrimp and cook, stirring fre-

quently, until they are slightly

crispy, about 10 minutes. Trans-

fer to a bowl, and let cool.

5 In a fl at-bottomed wok over

high heat or a heavy, well-

seasoned 12-inch skillet over

medium-high heat, add the lard

or oil, and swirl to coat the inner

surface and sides. Once smoking,

add the fresh shrimp and pork,

and cook, using a wok spatula or

large wooden spoon to continu-

ously stir and break up the pork,

for about 15 seconds. Push the

shrimp and pork to one side of the

wok, then crack the egg into the

empty side. (The egg white will

bubble and puff .) Lower the heat

to medium, and cook until the

edges of the whites are lightly

golden and crispy, about 30 sec-

onds. Add the tofu, radish, and

toasted dried shrimp to an empty

area of the wok. Use the wok

spatula to fl ip the egg (it’s okay if

the yolk breaks) and cook, with-

out stirring, for 1 minute. Use the

spatula to break the egg into

several rough pieces, then stir

everything together vigorously

and continuously for 1 minute

more. Add the noodles on top of

the ingredients in the wok and

cook, without stirring, for 45

seconds. (The moisture cling-

ing to the noodles will steam up

dramatically.) Vigorously stir

everything together, then add

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the

prepare d sauce, and stir a g a in.

Add the bean sprouts and cook,

stirring occasionally, until the

noodles are fully tender and

have absorbed the sauce, and

the bean sprouts are tender

but still crunchy, 1–1½ minutes.

Add the ¼ cup garlic chives and

1 tablespoon peanuts, and stir-

fry briefl y.

6 Transfer the pad thai to a serv-

ing platter. Sprinkle with a large

pinch each of additional garlic

chives and peanuts, and serve.

On the side, place whole gar-

lic chives or banana blossoms

if using, and off er small dishes

(khruang phrung) of toasted

chile powder, fi sh sauce, and raw

cane sugar for guests to custom-

ize their plates.

Pad thai has been endlessly adapted (some

might say bastardized), but the real Thai

street-food version has undeniable appeal.