ROBBREPORT.COM 49
WATCHES | The GoodsTime Rewind
The past is a perennial reference point for watchmakers, many of whom boast a
history spanning at least a century, if not two. But this year brands finally delivered
what collectors have long been looking for: literal remakes of their important
historical watches. Ultimately, the new model drives up prices of the original in
the secondary market, which in turn creates even more demand for the modern
timepieces, resulting in a very fruitful circle for brand and collector alike. P.R.ZENITH EL PRIMERO A384 REVIVAL
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its famous El
Primero automatic chronograph movement, Zenith has
given the legendary watch—which was instrumental
in saving the watchmaker from the 1970s quartz
crisis—a new limited-edition release. Fifty El Primero
box sets were launched earlier this year, followed
by the debut of three El Primero A386 pieces, each
of which is limited to 50 examples. Predictably, all of
them were spoken for within weeks of their release.
Not to worry, though: Zenith has just launched an
unlimited version of the A384, a replica of the first
model equipped with the El Primero, completing the
retro trilogy. ($7,600, zenith-watches.com)GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL
SEAQ 1969
Glashütte’s original Spezimatic
Type RP TS 200 wasn’t quite the
decorated luxury piece you’d expect
from the brand today. Back in 1969,
the East German watchmaker was
all about sturdy reliability, and
the watch was a perfect example
of function over form. With its
new Original Spezialist collection,
however, Glashütte is reviving the
old dive watch with a trio of SeaQ
timepieces, the most important of
which is the limited-edition 1969
model. Side by side, they’re virtually
identical, though the original’s old
radium Arabic numerals, indexes
and hands now come in luminescent
green Super-Luminova. Just 69
examples have been made. ($8,700–
$9,000, glashutte-original.com)BLANCPAIN FIFTY
FATHOMS BARAKUDA
When it comes to dive watches,
few are as iconic and collectible
as the Fifty Fathoms, and
Blancpain outdid itself this
year with the re-release of
its Barakuda model from the
’60s. The new version is nearly
identical to its predecessor,
save for whiter accents on the
hands, a new uni-directional
bezel with a scratch-resistant
domed sapphire crystal and
crisper two-tone hour markings
accented with radium-type
SuperLuminova. The new model
requires deep pockets and fast
action: With only 500 available
worldwide, you will have to
go to great lengths to get one.
($14,100, blancpain.com)BREITLING 1959
RE-EDITION REF. 806
Breitling released several
throwback models this year,
including variations inspired by
its Pan Am and TWA days, but
the watch that’s been creating
all the buzz for the brand is the
1959 Ref. 806. Conceived in
partnership with Breitling’s most
visible collector and Breitling
chronograph connoisseur, Fred
Mandelbaum (better known to
his 50,000-plus followers on
Instagram as @watchfred), the
redux—which is limited to 1,959
examples—is an exact version
of the original. Attention to detail
was so rigorous that even minute
features such as the number
of beads around the bezel and
the unsigned winged logo are
true to the first model. There
is one difference worth noting,
though: The new version comes
with an entirely new in-house
manufacture movement, the
caliber B09, and word on the
street is that it may power all
future hand-wound re-editions.
($8,600, breitling.com)Gla
Type
decorate
fromthe
the Eas
al
thew
ofROBBREPORT.COM 49
WATCHES | The GoodsTime Rewind
The past is a perennial reference point for watchmakers, many of whom boast a
history spanning at least a century, if not two. But this year brands finally delivered
what collectors have long been looking for: literal remakes of their important
historical watches. Ultimately, the new model drives up prices of the original in
the secondary market, which in turn creates even more demand for the modern
timepieces, resulting in a very fruitful circle for brand and collector alike. P.R.
ZENITH EL PRIMERO A384 REVIVAL
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its famous El
Primero automatic chronograph movement, Zenith has
given the legendary watch—which was instrumental
in saving the watchmaker from the 1970s quartz
crisis—a new limited-edition release. Fifty El Primero
box sets were launched earlier this year, followed
by the debut of three El Primero A386 pieces, each
of which is limited to 50 examples. Predictably, all of
them were spoken for within weeks of their release.
Not to worry, though: Zenith has just launched an
unlimited version of the A384, a replica of the first
model equipped with the El Primero, completing the
retro trilogy. ($7,600, zenith-watches.com)GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL
SEAQ 1969
ashütte’s original Spezimatic
e RPTS 200 wasn’t quite the
edluxury piece you’d expect
e brand today. Back in 1969,
stGerman watchmaker was
l about sturdy reliability, and
watchwas a perfect example
f function over form. With its
newOriginal Spezialist collection,
however,Glashütte is reviving the
old dive watch with a trio of SeaQ
timepieces, the most important of
which is the limited-edition 1969
model. Side by side, they’re virtually
identical, though the original’s old
radium Arabic numerals, indexes
and hands now come in luminescent
green Super-Luminova. Just 69
examples have been made. ($8,700–
$9,000, glashutte-original.com)BLANCPAIN FIFTY
FATHOMS BARAKUDA
When it comes to dive watches,
few are as iconic and collectible
as the Fifty Fathoms, and
Blancpain outdid itself this
year with the re-release of
its Barakuda model from the
’60s. The new version is nearly
identical to its predecessor,
save for whiter accents on the
hands, a new uni-directional
bezel with a scratch-resistant
domed sapphire crystal and
crisper two-tone hour markings
accented with radium-type
SuperLuminova. The new model
requires deep pockets and fast
action: With only 500 available
worldwide, you will have to
go to great lengths to get one.
($14,100, blancpain.com)BREITLING 1959
RE-EDITION REF. 806
Breitling released several
throwback models this year,
including variations inspired by
its Pan Am and TWA days, but
the watch that’s been creating
all the buzz for the brand is the
1959 Ref. 806. Conceived in
partnership with Breitling’s most
visible collector and Breitling
chronograph connoisseur, Fred
Mandelbaum (better known to
his 50,000-plus followers on
Instagram as @watchfred), the
redux—which is limited to 1,959
examples—is an exact version
of the original. Attention to detail
was so rigorous that even minute
features such as the number
of beads around the bezel and
the unsigned winged logo are
true to the first model. There
is one difference worth noting,
though: The new version comes
with an entirely new in-house
manufacture movement, the
caliber B09, and word on the
street is that it may power all
future hand-wound re-editions.
($8,600, breitling.com)Gla
Type
decorate
fromthe
theEas
al
thew
of