Extreme How-To – September 2019

handrail mounts against each

newel at a matching elevation

from the stairs.

When you’re satisfied with final

placement of a newel, apply con-

struction adhesive to the wooden

mounting block and fasten it with

four washer-head screws down

into the floor framing. Fill any hol-

low voids at the newel base with

solid blocking and nail or glue into

place. For final assembly, apply

adhesive at all points of contact

between the mounting block, the

filler blocking, and the interior of

the newel. The newels are then

anchored into the blocking or

floor/stair framing using two 1 / 2 -

in. lag screws through the front of

the base. For a belt-and-sus-

penders approach, drive finish

nails through the sides of the

newel into the blocking.

DETERMINE BALUSTER

SPACING

Before you ever order your stair

parts, you’ll need to have deter-

mined the maximum baluster

spacing and how many balusters

are required per tread. The first

baluster of each tread should be

1 / 2 baluster square back from the

face of the riser. Divide the run of

the tread (distance from riser to

riser) by the required number of

balusters per tread to find the

center-to-center distance for the

other balusters.

For example, if the run is 10

inches and the maximum spacing

required by code is 4 inches; 10

divided by 4 equals 2 - 1 / 2 spaces

required per tread. Round this up

to 3 spaces. Thus, 3 balusters per

tread are required. A 10 - in. run

divided by 3 balusters equals 3. 333

in. ( 3 - 11 / 32 in.) center-to-center.

34 ExtremeHowTo.com

The newel is anchored over

the blocking with a couple of

countersunk lag screws.

The landing newel will connect

the stair rail to the upper guard

rail.

Position both newels to ensure a

consistent rail height over all the

stair treads. The newels should

align so the rail connects at the

centerline of each post.

DIY

STAIR RAIL

INSTALLATION

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