This Old House – September 2019

(sharon) #1

that’s the same size as the gap allows


me to trim


1

⁄ 4 inch (or


1

⁄ 2 inch) off the


bottom of the door and get a clean


surface for a good glue bond.


Take a door off its hinges, set it


up on sawhorses, and trim the


bottom with a track saw or a


circular saw and saw guide. For the


best results with a circular saw, use


a sharp, new blade and apply


painter’s tape over the cutline to


prevent splintering.


Center the filler on the bottom of


the door, clamp it in place, and use


a countersink bit to drill three evenly


spaced pilot holes through the filler’s


bottom edge and partway into the


door. Make the countersinks deep


enough for the screwheads to be


slightly recessed. Next, using the


holes in the door bottom as guides,


drill three pilot holes as deep as


the thickness of the filler. Apply a


bead of wood glue to the filler, stick


it to the door, and hold it in place


with three flathead wood screws. If


any glue squeezes out, wipe it up


with a damp rag.


While the glue dries, plane the


filler until the plane’s blade begins


to scratch the paint on the door


faces. Switch to a random-orbit


sander with 60-grit paper to make


the filler flush and remove the door


paint, then sand with 80-grit and


120-grit papers. (If the doors are


old and test positive for lead paint,


take the appropriate precautions


when cutting and sanding.)


Trim the filler’s overhanging


ends flush with the door sides, and


fill any voids in the filler’s end grain


with a paste made of wood glue


and sawdust.


The door will be ready to paint


after this one last step: Line up a


rafter square with the inside edge


of a door stile. Run a utility knife


alongside the square to make a


straight, shallow cut in the filler.


Do the same thing front and back


on both door stiles. These cosmetic


cuts create the illusion that the


stiles run from top to bottom, the


way the door was originally built.


Hot water in attic


The tank-type electric water


heater in my attic turns off during


summer months, forcing me to


climb into that very hot space and


press the heater’s reset button.


The heater resumes working, then


shuts down again in a week or so.


I’ve had new thermostats and


DOOR FIXES


Watch Tom


Silva close up


big gaps at


thisoldhouse


.com/


salvaged-door


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