Daily Mail - 17.08.2019

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Page 64 Daily Mail, Saturday, August 17, 2019

Escape: Budget break


Valencia for under £100 a night


What to see and do
÷ Visit the cathedral
ENTRY to Valencia’s splendid baroque
and gothic cathedral is £7 for tourists
— a reasonable price to see the gold
and agate chalice said to have been
used by Christ at the Last Supper. Or
pay £1.80 to climb the steps of El
Miguelete (above) for city views.
catedraldevalencia.es

÷ Step into the future
LA CIUDAD de las Artes y las Ciencias
(City of Arts and Sciences, far left) is
a giant, space-age complex made
up of a science museum, cinematic
hall, aquarium and various exhibi-
tions (online tickets £25, cac.es).

÷ Go for a long walk
A STROLL along the marina at sunset
is the perfect way to round off a day’s
sightseeing. Sit and watch — or join
— people leaping into the sea.

÷ Take a bike ride
BIKE lanes abound. A highlight is
going for a spin along the Jardin del
Turia, a riverbed that was turned into
a park after the river flooded and
had to be diverted (£4.50 a day).

÷ Try a cocktail
AGUA de Valencia is a local cocktail
of champagne, orange juice, gin and
vodka. It’s usually served in half-litre
jugs for two (£8.50). Try it at Cafe Sant
Jaume, a former pharmacy with old
counters, mirrors and tiles.
cafesantjaumevalencia.com

BARCELONA and Madrid will
always be the big two for city
breaks in Spain. Then there’s the
flamenco-dancing of Seville,
the Moorish treasures of
Granada and the ancient sights
of Toledo — meaning Valencia,
Spain’s third largest city, is
often overlooked. Yet there’s
masses to see and do, with
a lively nightlife in the
labyrinthine lanes of the old
town, magnificent churches,
museums, bustling markets —
and, yes, lovely, sandy beaches.


Where to stay


÷ Hotel Ad Hoc Carmen
THIS new, 21-room hotel is tucked
away in a quieter spot in the heart
of the tapas bar action of Barrio del
Carmen. In this lovely 15th-century
townhouse with beams, rooms are
colourful with splashes of modern
art. All doubles are split over two
levels; family rooms have bunks.


Doubles from £50,
adhochoteles.com


÷ Hotel Ad Hoc Monumental
On A side street close to Jardin del
Turia, a green ribbon of park where
the River Turia once flowed, this
hotel, part of the same chain as the
Carmen above, is in a 19th-century
building and has cosy rooms.


Doubles from £70


÷ Blanq Carmen Hotel


ALSO close to the many tapas bars
of Barrio del Carmen — with a great
rooftop bar and a small pool with
city views — this is one for lovers of
design hotels. Expect emerald and
pink velvet armchairs alongside
rubber tree plants in the minimalist
reception. The 24 rooms are smart
and reasonably sized.


Doubles from £66,
blanqhotels.com


÷ Hotel NH Ciudad


de Valencia
FOR the comforts of a business
hotel that’s a 20-minute stroll from
the beach and the futuristic
attractions of La Ciudad de las
Artes y las Ciencias (see box, right),
this is a good pick. Ask for a top-
floor room with a balcony.
Breakfasts overflow with hams,
cheeses, eggs and juices. The only
downside is that it’s a bus ride or a
45-minute walk to the city centre.


B&B doubles from £80,
nh-hotels.com; prices fluctuate


Where to eat
÷ El Escondite
THERE are dozens of places to
choose from on the beachfront.
El Escondite, next to the
marina and favoured by sailors,
is a terrific snack bar serving
salads, sandwiches and vino
blanco (£7 for food and wine).
viulamarinadevalencia.com
÷ Cafe Rialto Club
CLOSE to Estacion del norte,
the Cafe Rialto Club is another
place frequented by locals. It’s
at the base of the beautiful, Art
Deco Rialto Cinema which plays
arthouse films. Set lunches with
salads, pork stews, pudding and
coffee cost from £10.
caferialto.es

÷ Mercado Central
IT’S a joy to wander around this
gorgeous market, stopping for
fresh juice (£1.35), a salty Iberico
ham baguette (£2.25), or a slice
of Spanish omelette (£2.25).
Also check out Mercado Colon,
on the east side of the city, which
has a cluster of charming bars.
mercadocentralvalencia.es;
mercadocolon.es

÷ El Camerino
BARRIO de Ruzafa is south of
the old town and less touristy,
with cool bars and a local
neighbourhood feel. El Camerino
is especially popular. Order a
selection of dishes: spicy pork

in cider
sauce, fried
potatoes with
alioli, codfish
croquettes and vegetable
stews (£20 a head with wine).
elcamerinoruzafa.com

÷ Horchata street stalls
HORCHATA is an ice-cold milky
local drink made from tiger nuts.
Making it properly and serving
it at just the right temperature
is considered an art. There are
numerous stalls, but the best
offer organic versions (£2).

How to get there
EASYJET returns from Gatwick
cost from £60 (easyjet.com); a
metro ride to the centre takes
25 minutes and costs £4.50.

TOM CHESSHYRE


Illustration: PHIL ARGENT
Pictures: ALAMY / ROBERT HARDING
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