siliconchip.com.au Australia’s electronics magazine April 2019 27
19111181
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TOP VIEW OF COIL PCB UNDERSIDE VIEW OF COIL PCB
CON7P CON5P
CON8P CON6P
COM
P11
P10
P13
P12
P15 P14
P9
P3 P2
P5
P6 P1
P4
P7
P8
P1 COIL P1 COIL
P4 COIL P4 COIL
P7 COIL P7 COIL
P10 COIL P10 COIL
P13 COIL P13 COIL
P2 COIL P2 COIL
P5 COIL P5 COIL
P8 COIL P8 COIL
P11 COIL P11 COIL
P14 COIL P14 COIL
P3 COIL P3 COIL
P6 COIL P6 COIL
P9 COIL P9 COIL
P12 COIL P12 COIL
P15 COIL P15 COIL
CON7P
(1) (2) (4)
(8) (16) (32)
(64) (128) (256)
(512) (1024) (2048)
(4096) (8192) (16384)
19111181
19111181
19111181
19111181
TOP VIEW OF COIL PCB UNDERSIDE VIEW OF COIL PCB
CON7P CON5P
CON8P CON6P
COM
P11
P10
P13
P12
P15 P14
P9
P3 P2
P5
P6 P1
P4
P7
P8
P1 COIL P1 COIL
P4 COIL P4 COIL
P7 COIL P7 COIL
P10 COIL P10 COIL
P13 COIL P13 COIL
P2 COIL P2 COIL
P5 COIL P5 COIL
P8 COIL P8 COIL
P11 COIL P11 COIL
P14 COIL P14 COIL
P3 COIL P3 COIL
P6 COIL P6 COIL
P9 COIL P9 COIL
P12 COIL P12 COIL
P15 COIL P15 COIL
CON7P
(1) (2) (4)
(8) (16) (32)
(64) (128) (256)
(512) (1024) (2048)
(4096) (8192) (16384)
Fig.4: the coil board. Each coil is made from copper on both sides of the board.
Solder four 2x2-pin SMD headers to the back side of this board, as shown.
The only parts soldered to the top side of the board are the six frame strips
which hold the pixel flaps in place. Add numbers in parentheses for each pixel
that you want to be ‘on’ to determine the code used to produce a particular
character. For example, 2+8+32 = 42 will give you a caret (^) on the display.
ommend that you leave it longer than
suggested by the manufacturer to en-
sure it is fully cured. If it is still sticky,
it may gum up the mechanism and
make handling difficult.
If you wish to change the colour of
the flaps, after the resin has cured is an
ideal time. A thin coat of paint should
be used to ensure that the flaps do not
become too heavy. You could use spray
paint, one colour on one side, and a
second colour on the other side.
You could apply the same colours to
the coil PCB, although this will need
masking to ensure the colours are kept
separate.
However, we think most construc-
tors will be happy with the black and
white as supplied, since it provides
good contrast under just about any
lighting conditions.
Note that if you are building mul-
tiple displays to be ganged together,
it’s a good idea to ensure that the mag-
netic polarity is consistent across all
the displays, to avoid extra software
complexity.
If different characters have different
pixel black/white orientation, this will
need to be programmed into the soft-
ware, so that it can give a consistent
display across characters.
Building the frame
You will need six frame elements
to build one fifteen-pixel display. But
note that if you are going to be stack-
ing two frames vertically, you will only
need eleven in total; one frame will be
shared between two boards. The frame
pieces are cut from a 72.5 x 75mm PCB
which contains eight separate frame
1911118419111184
C
+
CO
N3
CO
N1
2019
1k
W
19111184 RevC
Flipdot Display Driver PCB
12V
GN
D
12V
GN
D /5
V GN
D D
LT
CK EN
3.3 G
ND
D
LT
CK
EN
33
Fm
1000 mF
IC
1
74HC
595
IC
1
74HC
595
IC
2
74HC
595
IC
2
74HC
595
IC3LIC3L293D293D
IC4LIC4L293D293D IC6LIC6L293D293D
IC5LIC5L293D293D
COCON4N4
CO
N2
CO
N2
CON5
CON6
CON7
CON8
/5V 3.^3
Fig.5: use this PCB overlay diagram and the photo above as a guide to assembling the driver board. Note the location
of the headers for CON1 - CON4 and the orientation of the ICs. The two capacitors will need to be laid over to sit under
the coil PCB. The female headers are convenient for using jumper wires to a Micromite or Arduino, although you may
substitute anything that suits. At right is the Flipdot display main PCB – it may not be immediately obvious that the
circles on this board are in fact coils (see inset) which are responsible for “flipping” the “pixel” either white or black.