HELLOFASHION.COM 87hfm BEAUTY
W
e’re not just being patriotic, London is the
launch pad for some of the beauty industry’s
most prominent creative vanguards. Consider
some of the make-up artists, hair stylists and
manicurists who have honed their craft in
the British capital and are now flying the flag; Pat McGrath,
Charlotte Tilbury, Sam McKnight, Val Garland, Guido Palau,
Marian Newman, Eugene Souleiman... the list goes on.
“London has certainly born a lot of talented and successful
creatives,” says Sam McKnight. “With its fashion colleges and
roster of independent designers – who aren’t as dictated to
by business – it’s a breeding ground for young talent. London
has a tradition of being more experimental than the other
fashion capitals – where the industry is more corporate.”
The UK’s cultural climate has moulded generations
of artists: “A lot of creatives here have been inspired by
subcultures that sprung up
following the punk movement
in the 70s,” explains Terry
Barber, director of make-
up artistry at MAC. “It’s
about creating irreverent,
experimental imagery whilst
retaining a sense of effortless
cool that makes British
artists unique and so sought
after – it’s a brave approach
to style that’s admired around
the world. There’s a lot of
soul. And it also means
London is a natural birthplace
for emerging beauty trends.”
And the capital’s creativity is
certainly being commoditised;
over 37 per cent of beauty
products launched last year
were in the UK, followed by
25 per cent in the US and 15
per cent in France. “With over
1,800 beauty brands operating
in the country, it’s no surprise
that we are seeing some of
the most exciting and creative
innovation coming from the UK
and shaping the future of beauty across the world,” says Caroline
Neville MBE, president of Cosmetic Executive Women UK.
And in recognition of the industry’s contribution to the
economy, the British Beauty Council was founded late last year.
A non-profit organisation to give the sector a public-facing
image and engage politicians and business leaders. “The beauty
industry is big business now,” says Sam McKnight, who is on the
British Beauty Council’s advisory board and launched his own
brand, Hair By Sam McKnight, at London Fashion Week back
in 2017. “I have been around for a long time – since before the
first London Fashion Week in 1984, and there has been huge
progression since then. The fashion industry is one thing, but
the beauty industry has exploded in that time. It brings in a lot
of money and has created a lot of jobs for people. And I think
the British beauty consumer is becoming more engaged with
LFW – social media has played an important role in that.”
Turn over to discover the latest looks and products
championed backstage, chart the rise of global trends that
began in the capital – and find out how a day at fashion
week pans out for the industry’s key players.BEAUTY
TRAIL
BLAZERS
Is London the beauty capital of fashion
week? We speak to models, bookers, image
makers and industry insiders to find out why
you can trace most trends back to the UKWORDS CHARLOTTE JOLLY & ELLE SIXSMITHCLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Sibling, Halpern,
and Roksanda
shows, all
at London
Fashion WeekHELLOFASHION.COM 87hfm BEAUTY
W
e’re not just being patriotic, London is the
launch pad for some of the beauty industry’s
most prominent creative vanguards. Consider
some of the make-up artists, hair stylists and
manicurists who have honed their craft in
the British capital and are now flying the flag; Pat McGrath,
Charlotte Tilbury, Sam McKnight, Val Garland, Guido Palau,
Marian Newman, Eugene Souleiman... the list goes on.
“London has certainly born a lot of talented and successful
creatives,” says Sam McKnight. “With its fashion colleges and
roster of independent designers – who aren’t as dictated to
by business – it’s a breeding ground for young talent. London
has a tradition of being more experimental than the other
fashion capitals – where the industry is more corporate.”
The UK’s cultural climate has moulded generations
of artists: “A lot of creatives here have been inspired by
subcultures that sprung up
following the punk movement
in the 70s,” explains Terry
Barber, director of make-
up artistry at MAC. “It’s
about creating irreverent,
experimental imagery whilst
retaining a sense of effortless
cool that makes British
artists unique and so sought
after – it’s a brave approach
to style that’s admired around
the world. There’s a lot of
soul. And it also means
London is a natural birthplace
for emerging beauty trends.”
And the capital’s creativity is
certainly being commoditised;
over 37 per cent of beauty
products launched last year
were in the UK, followed by
25 per cent in the US and 15
per cent in France. “With over
1,800 beauty brands operating
in the country, it’s no surprise
that we are seeing some of
the most exciting and creative
innovation coming from the UK
andshapingthefutureofbeauty across the world,” says Caroline
NevilleMBE,presidentof Cosmetic Executive Women UK.
Andinrecognitionofthe industry’s contribution to the
economy,theBritishBeauty Council was founded late last year.
A non-profitorganisation to give the sector a public-facing
imageandengagepoliticians and business leaders. “The beauty
industryis bigbusinessnow,” says Sam McKnight, who is on the
BritishBeautyCouncil’sadvisory board and launched his own
brand,HairBySamMcKnight, at London Fashion Week back
in2017.“I havebeenaround for a long time – since before the
firstLondonFashionWeek in 1984, and there has been huge
progressionsincethen.The fashion industry is one thing, but
thebeautyindustryhasexploded in that time. It brings in a lot
ofmoneyandhascreateda lot of jobs for people. And I think
theBritishbeautyconsumer is becoming more engaged with
LFW– socialmediahasplayed an important role in that.”
Turnovertodiscoverthe latest looks and products
championedbackstage,chart the rise of global trends that
beganinthecapital– and find out how a day at fashion
weekpansoutfortheindustry’s key players.BEAUTY
TRAIL
BLAZERS
Is London the beauty capital of fashion
week? We speak to models, bookers, image
makers and industry insiders to find out why
you can trace most trends back to the UKWORDS CHARLOTTE JOLLY & ELLE SIXSMITHCLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Sibling, Halpern,
and Roksanda
shows, all
at London
Fashion Week