BAZAAR

of clothing, the balance of a garment. With Halston, Khanalso immersed himself in the cultural fabric of the city. TheNew York of Elizabeth Taylor and Betty Ford and LizaMinnelli and Truman Capote and Andy Warhol, who taughthim to draw. “Designing is important, but passion is abouthow you live, how you interact with society. To know thewoman you’re designing for, you have to be a part of thatsociety,” he says. “When I would come back to India,my parents—they’re simple folks—would scold mefor things. My two lives were so weird, and I keptthem separate. There was Studio 54 and then theIndian household. When I would get on a plane, it wasalmost like taking off a skin.”Not so anymore. It’s not a matter ofreconciling different identities—he’s beenaway longer than he lived in India—butabout embracing how well they informhis designs. Cultures co-exist in hisclothes, just as in his life. His Fall 2018range, which he showcased at New YorkFashion Week, celebrated the idea of aglobal woman, awash with influencesfrom Spanish ruffles to Peruvianhandiwork and, of course, Indianembroidery. A powerful display ofdiversity by an Indian immigrant in post-Trump America. “Last collection was allabout empowerment. That was more of apolitical move than an art move, whereyou’re saying you want the world to be abig beautiful place. We’re becoming awarethat we all need to be more united.”In the 36 years he’s been in the industry,he’s lost the Afro from when he first started out, but kept therestlessness, the need to do more. Which brings us to his mostambitious project till date—a fashion school in Miami, adjacent tohis new headquarters, expected to open in 2021. “The thoughtwas, how could I teach the techniques that I’ve learned andmastered, with my relationship with India and the rest of theworld? Fashion is not just art, it’s economics and business. If youcan’t combine the two, you can be the greatest artist in the worldbut you’ll die hungry. I want to have a school so students can seelearn how the industry runs.”Recently, he also launched a new, more affordable label, NK32Naeem Khan at Neiman Marcus stores across the United States.And though he doesn’t plan to retail in India anytime soon—thechaos that sparks his creativity stifles business—he looks to hismotherland for validation. “It used to bug me, dressing the First Ladyand not getting any acknowledgement from the government; not athank you, but that they were proud of my work,” he says. “I still seekapproval from India, it’s my people.” ■``````Fall 2018``````Fall 2018``````Fall 2018``````Fall 2012“My Indiannesscomes from thechaos, the colour,the embroidery,when there is noinhibition of mixingcolours. WhatI know in fashion isfrom India.”VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES; FILIPPO FIOR / IMAXTREEBazaarSTYLE