91 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja Única
Reserva 2015 $30 This red is plush and polished,
showing good density to the plum, currant and forest floor
flavors, backed by well-integrated tannins and gentle acid-
ity. Rich yet graceful. Tempranillo and Graciano. Drink
now through 2030. 3,295 cases made, 1,000 cases
imported.—T.M.
90 Cune Rioja Gran Reserva 2013 $39 This
polished red offers expressive flavors of cherry, cedar, clove
and floral, displaying supple tannins and citrusy acidity.
Lively and fresh, with good stuffing. Drink now through
- 4,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Izadi Rioja Crianza 2016 $16 See
Smart Buys, page 83.
90 Bodegas Palacios Remondo Rioja La
Montesa Crianza 2016 $20 This polished red offers
cherry, tangerine and vanilla flavors, with a fruity sweet-
ness, backed by gentle tannins and sweet-tart acidity. Not
a big wine, but harmonious and graceful. Tempranillo,
Garnacha and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2024. 53,000
cases made, 13,000 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Señorio de San Vicente Rioja 2015 $60 This
big red delivers vibrant flavors of kirsch, espresso, orange
peel and dried herb, supported by muscular tannins and
racy acidity. Bold and a bit heady, with plenty of stuffing.
Drink now through 2030. 5,000 cases made, 500 cases
imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Tobía Rioja Selección de Autor
2016 $48 Inky, sanguine and licorice notes give this
firm red an austere character, featuring a core of currant
and blackberry flavors. A sweet vanilla accent emerges
on the finish. Drink now through 2030. 9,500 cases made,
1,200 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Viña Albina Reserva
2015 $23 A supple texture carries harmonious flavors
of dried cherry, tobacco, cedar and spice in this graceful
red. Features light tannins and orange peel acidity, with
a vanilla-scented finish. Drink now through 2023. 50,000
cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Bhilar Graciano Rioja Lágrimas
2017 $13 This firm red has a savory character, with
sanguine and smoky accents framing a core of cherry and
iron flavors. Dense with tannins, finishing with balsamic
and cocoa notes. Drink now through 2024. 2,000 cases
made, 100 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Olarra Graciano Rioja Cerro Añon
2016 $24 Licorice, tobacco and toasty notes frame a
core of plum, loamy earth and spice in this solid red. Firm
tannins run through a thick texture. A bit rustic, but bal-
anced. Drink now through 2028. 4,000 cases made, 500
cases imported.—T.M.
87 Torres Rioja Altos Ibéricos Reserva 2013 $15
Cedar, tobacco and forest floor notes frame dried cherry,
red plum and spice flavors in this polished red. The tex-
ture is supple but the underlying tannins remain firm
through the vanilla-scented finish. Drink now through
- 259 cases imported.—T.M.
SPAIN
Rioja / Rosé & White
92 Cune Rioja White Viña Real Barrel
Fermented 2017 $19 This white features an alluring
texture, firm, rich and silky. Expressive, with pear, melon,
tarragon and vanilla flavors, supported by firm acidity.
Shows concentration and balance. Drink now through
- 6,600 cases made, 50 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Baron de Ley Rioja Rosado 2018 $11 See
Best Values, page 83.
89 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Rosado 2018 $13
See Best Values, page 83.
89 Bodegas Casado Morales Tempranillo Rioja
Rosado Alonso López 2018 $19 Cherry, leafy,
ginger and clove notes lend this dry rosé an expressive
personality. Firm acidity and light tannins give this the
structure for food. Drink now through 2023. 7,000 cases
made, 4,200 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Cune Rioja White Monopole 2018 $14 Plump
and silky, this white offers apple, pear and light herbal
flavors, with notes of white flowers and mineral. Gentle
acidity keeps this focused. Drink now. 40,000 cases made,
4,000 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Rosé 2018 $13 This
rosé features a firm texture, with crisp acidity and light
tannins. The cherry, leafy and quinine flavors are bright,
revealing a refreshing touch of bitterness. Garnacha and
Tempranillo. Drink now through 2023. 5,000 cases made,
1,200 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas y Viñedos Ilurce Garnacha Rioja
Rosado Rio Madre 2018 $11 This bold rosé features
a deep cherry color, with expressive flavors of cherry,
strawberry and spice. The acidity is gentle, but light tan-
nins keep this focused. Old-school. Drink now. 1,500 cases
made, 1,500 cases imported.—T.M.87 El Coto de Rioja Rioja Rosado 2018 $11 Very
dry, even bitter, with a savory character that offers ginger,
herbal and quinine flavors that frame the moderate berry
fruit. Clean and distinctive. Tempranillo and Garnacha.
Drink now. 50,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—T.M.
87 Cune Rioja Rosado 2018 $13 This deeply
colored rosé is round and generous, with cherry, red plum
and watermelon flavors that show a touch of fruity sweet-
ness. Tangerine acidity supports the plush texture. Drink
now. 17,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
87 Bodegas Ramírez Garnacha-Viura Rioja
Rosado Ramírez de la Piscina 2018 $11 This pale,
dry rosé offers cherry and leafy flavors, with floral and gin-
ger accents. Crisp acidity lends focus. Garnacha and Viura.
Drink now. 3,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—T.M.SPAIN
Other Red & Rosé94 Artadi Spain El Carretil 2016 $200 Rich
and bold, this big red delivers currant, blackberry, licorice,
espresso and loamy earth flavors in a dense texture, with
well-integrated tannins and balsamic acidity. Deep and
seamless, in the modern style. Drink now through 2032.
520 cases made, 100 cases imported.—T.M.
94 Bodegas Mauro Viño de la Tierra de Castilla
y León Terreus Paraje de Cueva Baja 2016 $155
This red delivers power with grace. Currant and black-
berry flavors are bright and fresh, backed by well-inte-
grated tannins and lively acidity. Notes of cocoa, forest
floor and orange peel add interest. Drink now through- 824 cases made, 35 cases imported.—T.M.
94 Abadia Retuerta Syrah Viño de la Tierra de
Castilla y León Pago Garduña 2016 $120 This inky
red delivers savory notes of coffee, clove and tar that frame
a core of blackberry and currant flavors backed by loamy
earth and graphite elements. Muscular tannins and bal-
samic acidity build a brooding structure. Austere, but har-
monious and balanced. Best from 2020 through 2036. 750
cases made, 50 cases imported.—T.M.
93 San Román Bodegas y Viñedos Toro 2015
$65 Cocoa, licorice and spice notes frame ripe plum
and currant flavors in this rich, generous red. The firm
tannins are well-integrated and balsamic acidity keeps
this lively and balanced. Harmonious, in the modern style.
Drink now through 2030. 7,853 cases made, 650 cases
imported.—T.M.
New Releases: SpainSEPT. 30, 2019 • WINE SPECTATOR 99