WINE & DESIGN
The home cooking largely falls to the resident
chef. “During the week, it’s hectic,” he says. “The
kids need to get fed, and I have one very picky
eater.” On weekends, he might hit the farmers mar-
ket. “I never have a menu in my head, which kind
of makes my wife crazy, but I don’t know what I
want until I see it.” His meals often feature a bounty
of fresh herbs from the backyard garden—some-
thing he certainly didn’t have in Manhattan.
“I get up in the morning at six, I’m out in the
garden for two hours and then my day starts, and
it’s just a much better day,” he says. “It makes me
so happy.” He approaches the do-it-yourself ad-
venture that is gardening with a measure of def-
erence to the inherent wisdom of things that grow
in the ground. “I don’t know exactly what they’re
going to grow into,” he observes. “You just have
to let them grow.”
26 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019
P The 685-square-foot kitchen features light-reflecting navy-blue Farrow & Ball paint, a Lacanche range, a Kohler
farm sink, DeVol pendant lamps, white-oiled clear-oak floors from Architectural Flooring Resource, and Clé’s hand-
kilned Zellige Moroccan wall tiling. “It offers all these changes in topography,” says Wiggins-Marin, the designer;
the effect is a nuanced play of light. The kitchen’s brass Lacanche hardware is unlacquered for a similar effect.“We needed a dining room that was bigger, so when we do family events and there’s 12, 14 people, we can
actually get people around one table,” Colicchio explains. Located a flight above the kitchen, the airy room
features a table and chairs from BDDW and floor-to-ceiling, steel-encased windows by Hopes overlooking
the deck, fitted with McNichols Gia grating. In the garden below, Colicchio grows herbs, flowers and trees.For everyday drinking, Colicchio’s tastes run to
Cabernet Franc and light whites from Long Island.
When he feels like splurging, it’s usually California
Cabernet, Burgundy or the Rhône. Two temperature-
controlled wine drawers by KitchenAid (a brand that
the chef has occasionally promoted) store his drink-
now stash.
“[The kitchen is] the narrowest part of the house,
and so we knew we wanted to keep it open,” Colicchio
says. Exposed wood shelving shows off the family’s
cookbook collection and dishware from labels like CB2,
Vietri, I. Godinger & Co and Jono Pandolfi.In May 2019, Colic-
chio raised the fireplace
and converted it into a
powerful wood-burning
grill from North Fork
Ironworks. The new fire
pit is perfect for grilling
steak, chicken or, as
shown here, oysters on
the half shell mounted
with a mixture of but-
ter, lemon confit, Cal-
abrian chile paste and
ramps, cooked just un-
til the butter is melted
and bubbling.