WINE FOCUS
28 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019BY MARYANN WOROBIEC
G
iven the history of Sauvignon Blanc in the Golden State,
it would have been difficult to predict its recent rise to star-
dom. When Robert Mondavi introduced a barrel-fermented
version in the 1960s, naming it Fumé Blanc in a nod to its
smoky profile (and invoking France’s Pouilly-Fumé), others adopted
the style. But many versions were dull compared with the best wines
from France, and Americans developed a taste for Chardonnay as
their white wine of choice. Even 20 years ago, Sauvignon Blanc
vines were routinely ripped out and replaced with Chardonnay.
It’s hard to overstate how far Sauvignon Blanc has come. Today
it’s one of the state’s most refreshing, consistent and reasonably priced
whites, offering an exciting array of styles, from direct, fruit-forward
examples to versions with more complexity and nuance. There isn’t
a signature California style, and only a handful of vintners use the
“Fumé” moniker anymore.
“My attitude toward this varietal has changed dramatically over
the years,” explains Sauvignon Blanc specialist Merry Edwards. In
the 1970s, she thought it was a challenge to make a version she’d
like. “Gradually I learned how to craft Sauvignon Blanc into a wine
worthy of its place as one of the great wines of the world.”
A major turning point came in the 1990s, when New Zealand’s
distinctive fruit-forward bottlings began to arrive en masse. Wine-
makers took notice. With global Sauvignon Blanc getting so much
attention, why couldn’t California take part? The key was to treat
the variety with more respect. Vintners focused more on vineyard
practices, identifying sites that gave the grapes more intensity and less
herbaceousness. They also began to experiment in the winery, straying
away from oak.
These days, no matter what style a producer lands on, you can expect
light- to medium-bodied Sauvignon Blancs from California, most of
them fruit-forward in profile. There can be citrus elements, but more
tangerine or Mandarin orange than lemon-lime. Expect stone fruit and
melon notes, with some versions leaning toward tropical flavors such
as mango or pineapple. Herbal, floral or mineral details are common,
while subtle oak influences can suggest spice and tea notes.
Because Sauvignon Blanc grows relatively effortlessly and vigorously
in many spots around the state, the wine can be easy to make. The grapes
are picked early, and can be pressed, fermented in stainless steel and
bottled a few months later as a varietally correct (if unexciting) wine.
The new thinking is that Sauvignon Blanc deserves a more thought-
ful approach. Some winemakers report picking their grapes in multiple
passes to get a mix of fresh green notes with more ripe flavors, blending
them together. Others are employing custom or wild-yeast practices,
along with additional lees contact. A number of producers are also ex-
perimenting with a variety of fermentation vessels, from traditional oak
barrels to ones made from acacia, from stainless-steel tanks to concrete
fermentors and even clay amphorae.
Winemaker David Galzignato of Napa’s Provenance Vineyards sug-
gests there’s a special pride vintners take in the style of their Sauvignon
Blanc. “I don’t think Sauvignon Blanc goes through the same back and
forth as Chardonnay,” he says. “Houses stick to their version.”
Many house styles emphasize California Sauvignon Blanc’s strong
suit—how its bright acidity pairs well with many types of food. “I thinkthat the versatility of Sauvignon Blanc is now well-recognized,” explains
Edwards. “We are fortunate enough to produce the two varietals that
have the ability to dominate a menu—Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
That’s one reason we make half-bottles of each wine. A small bottle of
each at your table, and that covers any menu selection.”
Top California Sauvignon Blancs have fallen into this food-friendly
groove. The best examples have a succulent or fleshy texture—like bit-
ing into perfectly ripe fruit—while still showing plenty of bright acidity.
“The dirty little secret is the alcohol,” Galzignato says. “You can push it
and get viscosity, and with [Sauvignon Blanc’s] acidity you don’t notice
it.” Galzignato’s strategy is to split his Sauvignon Blanc picks—some
earlier with lower alcohol and others riper—and then blend them.
The average alcohol level among the wines in this report clocks in at
13.7%. But even at these numbers, there’s still plenty of lip-smacking
juiciness, with many versions that register at 13.5% and lower. Wine-
maker Steve Matthiasson says there is a lot of attention being paid to
picking times. “Lately I’m seeing more California Sauvignon Blanc pro-
ducers harvesting a bit earlier to capture more acidity and freshness,
while still retaining the lush fruit and rich palate that is a California
trademark.” He adds that improved focus in the vineyard means that
the grapes can avoid herbaceous notes and focus on ripe fruit flavors.
Since my previous report on the category (“Style and Substance,”
June 15, 2018), I have reviewed nearly 225 wines in blind tastings at
our Napa office, with impressive results. The vast majority scored 85
points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale, and a third of them
received outstanding scores of 90-plus. (A free alphabetical list of scores
and prices for all wines tasted is available at WineSpectator.com/
SauvignonBlancAlpha093019.)Steve Matthiasson at his winery in NapaSauvignon Blanc Revolution
These crisp whites from California show style, variety and quality