SEPT. 30, 2019 • WINE SPECTATOR 75JIM
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TASTING REPORT | NEW ZEALANDChardonnays and distinctive Syrahs. Even
within the Sauvignon Blanc category, producers
are pushing the envelope, coaxing richer aro-
matics and textures from the grape.
The result of their hard work is evident in the
nearly 350 wines I have reviewed in blind tast-
ings at our Napa office since my last report (“Trad-
ing Up,” Oct. 15, 2018). An impressive 25% of
them earned outstanding ratings of 90 points or
higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale, while
the vast majority rated upward of 85 points. More-
over, the average price of wines in this report
is $25, signaling the excellent value that New
Zealand delivers across the board. That makes it
even easier to explore the country’s offerings.
The top-scorers are split pretty evenly between
Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, which has be-
come the country’s signature red wine, but there
are other highly rated wines worth searching out
as well. Chardonnays from Kumeu River, Felton
Road and Dog Point should not be overlooked,
nor should the handful of outstanding Syrahs I
tasted, the most distinctive hailing from the
Hawkes Bay region, like those from Trinity Hill. (A free alphabeti-
cal list of scores and prices for all wines tasted is available at Wine
Spectator.com/NewZealandAlpha093019.)A
s impressive as this diversity is, the success of Sauvignon
Blanc is unrelenting. Kim Crawford reached production
of 1.7 million cases with the 2018 vintage of its Sauvi-
gnon Blanc (90, $18). It’s a terrific wine, bright and expressive,
with a thread of minerality. Winemaker Anthony Walkenhorst
describes an almost cultlike following for the brand. The wide
availability breeds name recognition, which then allows for even
more growth.
“It feels like there’s no stopping [Kim Crawford’s success],” he says,
adding that his challenge is to delivery consistency. “I want KimCrawford to continue to grow, but maintain style.” He also cites the
success of the $25 Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve bottling, made
from a selection of the best parcels. “Early indications are that people
are trading up,” says Walkenhorst of the premier, higher-priced wine,
whose 2017 bottling rated 90 points in last year’s report. (The 2018
wasn’t released in time for this report.)
Another expanding brand is Matua, which grew 42% in sales in
the past year, according to parent company Treasury Wine Estates,
making it the fastest-growing New Zealand brand. It’s another com-
bination of value, volume and quality, with the 2017 Sauvignon
Blanc (90, $13) showing off notes of lemongrass and Key lime,
while the 2018 (89, $12) has more Meyer lemon and lemon ver-
bena nuances.
Kim Crawford and Matua—as well as other high-scoring, high-
volume Sauvignon Blancs such as versions from Kono and Yea-
lands—epitomize what most wine lovers think of when it comes to
New Zealand. But it’s worth looking at other producers that are
taking Sauvignon Blanc to the next level. Some are experimenting
with practices such as wild-yeast fermentation and extended lees
contact that yield complex and distinctive examples.
The top-scoring Sauvignon Blanc is Dog Point’s Marlborough
Section 94 2016 (94, $38), which is hand-picked from low-crop-
ping vines and whole bunch–pressed, then fermented and aged in
older French oak barrels and bottled without fining. The result is
a richer version, with aromatics that range from honeycomb to
white pepper and orange blossom. It’s one of the best examples of
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc I’ve ever tasted.
Cloudy Bay’s Te Koko bottling also explores an expression of
Sauvignon Blanc that’s the result of wild yeast and oak fermenta-
tion, with the 2015 (91, $60) offering an intriguing mix of bees-
wax, lemon curd and honeysuckle notes. Greywacke’s Sauvignon
Blanc Marlborough 2018 (92, $23) was picked in the cold of night,
lightly pressed and then cold-settled before fermentation, resulting
in vibrant shades of pineapple and citrus.INVERCARGILLTIMARUNAPIERNEW PLYMOUTH
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Erica and Kim Crawford focus on sustainable and organic vineyards with their Loveblock label, which contributed
three oustanding new releases this year, including a distinctive 2018 Pinot Noir from the Central Otago region.