89
Bodegas Naia Rueda Las Brisas 2018
$11 SPAIN This white has a solid texture, built on
firm acidity. Offers Asian pear, blanched almond and tar-
ragon flavors, focused and clean. Assertive and balanced.
Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2024.
11,000 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.—T.M.88
Bogle Zinfandel California Old Vine 2016
$12 CALIFORNIA A zesty and fruit-forward red,
with cherry, bay leaf and spice flavors. Drink now through- 345,000 cases made.—T.F.
88
Chateau Souverain Sauvignon Blanc
California Invitation 2017 $10 CALIFORNIA
Key lime, melon and nectarine flavors are fleshy and juicy,
with a dash of lemon verbena on the finish. Drink now.
4,000 cases made.—M.W.87
Château de Campuget Costières de Nîmes
Rosé Tradition 2018 $11 FRANCE White peach,
watermelon rind and cherry pit notes mingle in this fresh,
breezy rosé. Syrah and Grenache. Drink now. 50,000 cases
imported.—J.M.New Wines From Around the World
AUSTRIA
92 Salomon-Undhof Riesling Kremstal Steiner
Kögl Reserve 2017 $55 A velvety texture and dense
flavors of tangerine, cantaloupe, almond and stone belie
the intensely vibrant acidity that sweeps the palate and
connects all the elements. Shows tremendous extract and
clarity simultaneously. Best from 2021 through 2029. 60
cases made.—A.Z.
91 Martin & Anna Arndorfer Sekt Niederöster-
reich die Leidenschaft Prickelnd 2013 $40 Rich
and mature, this is creamy in texture, offering flavors of
honey-roasted hazelnut, pear tart and lemon meringue.
Balanced by vivid structure and zesty acidity, this finishes
with a lingering, nutty nuance. Seductive and satisfying.
Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Drink now. 100 cases made,
28 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Salomon-Undhof Riesling Kremstal Ried
Pfaffenberg Reserve 2017 $55 Sleek, but with a
viscous palate, displaying flavors of pineapple and ripe
melon combined with elderflower details and minerally
richness. The finish is long and complex. Give this a few
more years for full enjoyment. Best from 2021 through- 140 cases made, 24 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark
Ried Kranachberg 2016 $75 Very elegant and pre-
cise, but a bit understated. With air, this shows beautiful
purity to the notes of white raspberry, currant and elder-
flower. Mineral accents linger on the finish. Best from 2020
through 2027. 1,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Loimer Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs
Niederösterreich Langenlois Grosse Reserve 2013
$44 A complex sparkler, featuring aromatic notes of
brioche, marzipan and yeast, with flambéed pear, lemon
curd and chalk accents. A tang of savory mineral and vi-
brant acidity give this energy and balance. Inviting finish.
Drink now through 2024. 450 cases made.—A.Z.
90 Werlitsch Sekt Steiermark Ex Vero NV $60
Unique, with an intriguing flinty note, vanilla, daisy and
dried citrus flavors, and a dense core of chalky minerality.
A leap-of-faith kind of sparkler, and not for everyone, but
this would be a great addition on the dinner table. Drink
now. 20 cases imported.—A.Z.
88 Salomon-Undhof Riesling Kremstal Von den
Terrassen 2018 $23 Graceful and expressive, featur-
ing an exotic profile, showing lychee and clementine
notes. Light, with a mineral-driven finish. Drink now
through 2023. 800 cases made, 108 cases imported.—A.Z.
88 Schmelzer Austria Dion Pet Nat 2017 $20
A soft, refreshing bubbly, perfect as an aperitif, showing
notes of lemon sorbet and pineapple. Dry finish. Welschries-
ling and Sämling. Drink now. 25 cases imported.—A.Z.
87 Leo Hillinger Secco Rosé Burgenland NV $19
Candied cherry and strawberry parfait flavors are framed
by crisp acidity in this fresh, easy-drinking and slightly
off-dry sparkler, with a lively bead. Drink now. 2,698 cases
made, 1,218 cases imported.—A.Z.
FRANCE
Burgundy / White98 Ramonet Montrachet 2016 $1,750 See
Collectibles, page 81.97 Ramonet Chevalier-Montrachet 2016 $850
Supple and elegant, this exudes lime blossom, peach, but-
ter and citronella aromas and flavors. The oak is discreet,
lending support. Overall, this shows beautiful harmony
and expression of place, with fine salinity on the finish.
Best from 2021 through 2033. 12 cases imported.—B.S.95 Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
2016 $650 This is saturated with peach, lemon pie,
citronella, butterscotch and baking spice flavors, all
wrapped in a creamy texture. Balanced and persistent,
ending with terrific cut and length. Peach, spice and but-
terscotch accents linger. Best from 2021 through 2033.
12 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet 2016 $650
This is toasty right out of the gate, with apple pie, peach,
lemon, butterscotch and mineral flavors. Broad and con-
centrated, yet lively, showing terrific balance and a long,
saturated aftertaste of fruit, spice and mineral notes. Best
from 2021 through 2032. 40 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Les
Caillerets 2016 $160 Lemon, citronella, butterscotch,
vanilla and clove flavors mark this tightly wound white.
Lean and fused to a steely structure, boasting a long, lin-
gering aftertaste of mineral, citrus and spice notes. Best
from 2021 through 2032. 12 cases imported.—B.S.93 Château Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos 2017
$167 Offering a mix of peach, melon and lemon curd
flavors wrapped in toasty oak, this white also boasts a
creamy texture. A beam of acidity at the core drives the
lingering aftertaste. Starts out rich and finishes long and
clean. Drink now through 2025. 75 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Château Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé Les Brûlés
2017 $148 Complex, revealing clean lines and well-
defined flavors of vanilla, peach and lemon, with a hint
of lanolin. Intense and long, featuring a persistent finish
that echoes spice and picks up a mineral note. Drink now
through 2025. 250 cases made, 60 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Clos du
Cailleret 2016 $160 Apricot, peach and grapefruit
aromas and flavors are the major themes in this complex
white. Smoke, mineral and butterscotch accents add depth
as this cruises to a long finish. Shows power and restraint,
with the citrus-tinged finish leaving a fresh impression.
Best from 2021 through 2030. 20 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Les
Ruchottes 2016 $240 Creamy, featuring peach, but-
terscotch, baking spice and lemon flavors. Still a bit re-
served, with the citrus element gaining intensity as this
builds to a lingering finish. Best from 2021 through 2029.
80 cases imported.—B.S.93 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers
2016 $140 This aromatic version delivers peach, apple
pie, butterscotch and lanolin flavors. Opulent and toasty,
showing charm and harmony. Finishes nicely, yet offers
more up front than on the finish, at least for now. Drink
now through 2027. 12 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Château Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé Les Combettes
2017 $148 Well-marked by baking spice notes of va-
nilla, clove, nutmeg and allspice, this white is also tangy,
evoking apple and lemon flavors and a saline element.
Turns focused and precise on the long finish. Drink now
through 2025. 250 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Boudriotte
2016 $150 An elegant version, with a supple texture
and bright acidity shading peach, apple, lemon and baking
spice flavors. Balanced, firming up with a tactile, savory
finish. Drink now through 2030. 55 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet Champs-
Canet 2016 $185 Features lemon pie flavors, with
flashes of honey and baking spice. Racy, persisting with
vibrant acidity and spice accents. Best from 2020 through- 40 cases imported.—B.S.
91 Bret Brothers Mâcon-Chardonnay Les Crays
2017 $37 Lemon custard, peach and Honeydew melon
flavors are allied to a vibrant structure in this bright, rich
white. Shows balance, depth and dimension, with a lin-
gering lemony aftertaste. Drink now through 2023. 327
cases made, 25 cases imported.—B.S.
SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Best Values / New Releases: Austria / France84 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2019