New Releases: Francestructured and well-textured, featuring many layers over-
lapping one after another. This is just beginning to drink
nicely. Drink now through 2027. 316 cases made, 20 cases
imported.—A.Z.
92 Domaine Les Pierres Écrites Montlouis Sur
Loire Empreintes 2017 $30 A gorgeous white, with
ripe peach and quince flavors tied to a vivid structure.
Shows a bit of crunchiness in the texture, adding to the
firmness and complexity overall. The finish is long and
filled with bittersweet apple and savory mineral notes.
Approachable now, but better to wait. Best from 2020
through 2027. 200 cases made, 40 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Domaine Delaporte Sancerre Les Monts
Damnés 2017 $52 Features a firm spine of acidity be-
hind the focused flavors of lime, white pepper and fleur
de sel. Crunchy in texture, this shows some character,
with great tension through the finish. Drink now through- 1,150 cases made, 60 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Domaine Delaporte Sancerre Silex 2017 $40
An elegant and balanced version, displaying a floral mix
up front, while hints of melon and kumquat form the core.
Sea salt accents glide throughout, taking over on the de-
fined finish. Drink now through 2025. 2,900 cases made,
600 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Charles Joguet Chinon White Clos de la
Plante Martin 2016 $42 This shows an enticing bou-
quet of elderflower and lilac on the nose, while the palate
offers more restraint. Picks up flavors of yellow apple and
nectarine midpalate, along with cardamom and sea salt
accents that linger. Nuanced, focusing more on a silky
texture and minerally structure, with high acidity for back-
bone. Drink now through 2023. 460 cases made, 50 cases
imported.—A.Z.
90 Loïc Mahé Savennières Les Fougeraies 2015
$50 The floral aromas on the nose draw you in, while
hints of ground anise and coriander introduce the palate.
Combining power and grace, the elements of ripe orchard
fruit, lemon verbena and prominent minerality mingle to
create an attractive core. Drink now through 2025. 2,000
cases made, 300 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Domaine Moncourt Vin de Pays du Val de
Loire Roche Noire 2018 $28 A subtle style, focus-
ing more on velvety texture and minerality than fruit.
Well-crafted, showing balance and character, this is rather
savory up front, with notes of citrus and spice. Mouthwa-
tering finish. Drink now through 2024. 3,000 cases made,
1,000 cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Les Frères Couillaud Muscadet de Sèvre et
Maine Sur Lie Château de la Ragotière Les Schistes
2017 $17 This refreshing, velvety white features lively
acidity and a mix of orchard and stone fruit, paired with
salty mineral details. Cardamom accents linger on the fin-
ish. Drink now. 8,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Domaine Pierre Martin Sancerre Chavignol
2018 $23 An elegant version, featuring well-integrated
acidity and notes of tarragon and lemongrass surrounding
the core of lemon pith and nectarine flavors. Well-built,
with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2022.
8,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.Z.89 Dominique Roger Sancerre Domaine du
Carrou 2018 $24 Vibrant, with peach pit, lime zest
and bergamot notes running through, balanced by a light,
savory mineral streak on the finish. Offers good range.
Drink now through 2022. 5,000 cases made.—A.Z.89 Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Les Picasses
2017 $26 An expressive red, with rosemary and loamy
earth notes framing the core of blackberry and dark cherry
flavors. Vibrant acidity meets the tannins to build some
astringency, so wait a few years for this to integrate. Best
from 2021 through 2026. 1,700 cases made, 200 cases
imported.—A.Z.
88 Domaine Pierre Martin Sancerre Red Chavi-
gnol 2017 $23 A light, graceful style, with sandalwood
and chalk notes surrounding the ripe cherry fruit, sup-
ported by light tannins. A sandalwood edge lingers on the
finish. Drink now through 2023. 500 cases made, 250 cases
imported.—A.Z.
87 Domaine Baron Malbec Touraine Côt 2017
$16 Juicy, fueled by lively acidity, this red exhibits fla-
vors of dark cherry, black currant and herb. Not too com-
plex, but should be nice with food. Drink now. 330 cases
made, 125 cases imported.—A.Z.
FRANCE
Loire / White
93 Loïc Mahé Savennières Sables & Schistes
2016 $40 Stunning, with lots of power and drive, yet
enough elegance to keep drawing you back for another sip.
Notes of ground ginger elevate the yellow plum and Bosc
pear flavors, while the minerality and acidity meet to cre-
ate a substantial structure. Hard to resist now, but this will
benefit from further development. Best from 2021 through
- 10,000 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Patrick Baudouin Savennières Bellevue 2015
$55 A round version, with subtle hints of graphite and
smoke surrounding the core of baked pear and blanched
almond flavors as this bone-dry white unravels. Firmly
SEPT. 30, 2019 • WINE SPECTATOR 87